The Bullock Smithy Hike

 This is Nick's favourite race and local to him. He is an avid fan and has done it many many times. I, on the other hand, have done it twice before many years ago. I think  one of those was to complete a Runfurther Grand Slam and the same is true this year. It is certainly not my favourite race and I have such unhappy memories that I was not looking forward to it. Although there is a fair bit of climb overall at 2690m lots of it is fast, flat and runnable- not my strengths but worse lots if tarmac and what isn't tarmac is often nasty stony tracks. Unforgiving on legs and feet.

Having decided to do it I was trying to talk it up in my head. I had arranged to car share with Ian and so did not have to drive. I could take my tent and sleep on the finish line. The forecast was pretty good and the terrain likely to be mostly dry. I would see lots of friends and all I had to was complete not compete.

The race starts at midday and although this means there is no need for a crazy early start it does mean a bit of standing around waiting. I an picked me up at 9 and we were parked by 10.15. I went to put my tent up and register whilst I an went to help Nick with the banners. Mid morning I had a snack as an early lunch as breakfast now seemed a distant memory.

By 11.40 people were moving down to the park to collect tally cards (yes- another Scout event that won't give them up even though there is now electronic timing). There was some debate about how to exit the park. The main road is at least 5 minutes faster but we had been asked, not forbidden, to avoid that route. Lots still went that was which is why I didn't see some people for quite a few miles. Janet led the bunch out of the top entrance for a few seconds at least.  Before the first road bend a small group of men and two women were off at what seemed a crazy pace. I remember thinking they were either very good or very foolish.

The start with a clang on the Anvil

Despite having done the race before the years had eroded my memory for detail and I didn't really recognise anything until we reached Lyme Park. The first bits were a short section of suburban houses, a lane and some field paths. In Lyme Park I caught Julian who had gone down the main road at the start and also Paul who I was to run with for much of the last 10 miles. It was nice to feel you were out in the hills after an urban start. Bowstones came and went before a wonderful grassy contouring path and then a track to Furness Vale. I enjoyed the paths towards Chinley Churn and even the section of tarmac was fairly short. This was one of the few bits I remembered. At the bigger road I grabbed crisps and a Rocky Bar (not had one of those for years). I then followed two runners and missed a small turning into some woods but some retraced my steps and put it right.

Before long we were on the edge of the Kinder area and soon at Edale Cross. Stony paths but lovely scenery. Our late start meant these paths were quite crowded with people making their way back to Edale; especially after Jacobs ladder. At Upper Booth I lost concentration and followed walkers towards an ice cream (I didn't stop) but was soon back on track and heading along tarmac to Edale dodging the traffic and an ambulance

I had promised I would stop and eat here. The CP food was OK and having a list published in advance is very helpful. I knew there would be rice pud and fruit salad which I find always goes down well. I was made up when they said I could have a second portion. It was now very warm and I was very sweaty so I filled up my water and drank well. 

I was using Nick's GPX file from last year. He said east along the lane and then UP. I sort of remembered that route albeit in reverse although another runner went back and then up Harden Clough which does look a tiny bit longer but less steep. No matter I was soon at Hollins Cross and on the path I knew to Castleton. The views were lovely and the campsites were heaving. I was a little hesitant in the village and should have paid more attention to the info on CP location. It was in an old petrol station on the eastern edge after all the car parks. This did mean we avoided the greasy Cave Dale although going up it would not have been so bad. I wandered up the first hillside with some young scout explorers who were on a break and the grass paths were a treat until they turned to stony track down Oxlow Rake and into Peak Forest.

I had been wondering which women were ahead of me and now I had a partial answer. As I got to the Reading Room I met Ambi who was 3rd. Spurred on by some women supporting their husbands and who insisted on calling me Wonder woman I grabbed food, topped up bottles and left with Ambi. She was faster up the road than me but not by much and I kept her in sight easily. After a couple of short fields we were on quite lanes and tracks leading to the next VP in MIllers Dale. It would have been nicer to follow the little paths through Dam Dale,  Hay Dale, Peter Dale and Monk's Dale but it was not to be. I wonder if the original planned route went that way but entrants searching for the easiest path picked the lanes rather like they do at the Calderdale Hike?

At Miller's Dale I remembered the CP in the barn even if not the route either side of it. I had spotted some fairly serious chaffing bleeding onto Ambi's vest. I decided there was no point mentioning it. If it was sore she knew and if it wasn't sore perhaps she didn't need to know. The CP staff spotted it and suggested some first aid. I used this as a shameful opportunity to overtake. The next section to Chelmorton was a bit grim up a fairly busy road with just some nice crags and caves to distract me, plus the good company of a male runner. Once we crossed the trunk road it improved a little or perhaps that was just the promise of donuts at the Chelmorton CP. This was another thing I remembered- so two memories and both food stops. Hmm.

Bright moon- no torches needed on some sections

At least with the CP's being so frequent it was not far to Earl Sterndale. The Quiet Woman pub is no more but I remembered the distinctive skyline of what I think is Crome Hill and we reached the CP in the church in plenty of daylight. 

Not my pic but an amazing hill in profile

Ambi and a young lad she was now running with ere not far behind and it was good to have the company of Andrew who knew they was. I tried to tell myself to treat the tarmac as 'easy' miles. We made Brand Top without torches but neither of us could face a hot dog.  

I refilled with Mountain Fuel, had half a cup of tea and put my torch on. We left just before what seemed like a large pack of runners appeared up the lane. Around Three Shires Head Ambi passed me but I could still see their torches ahead and I ran on leaving Andrew which seemed a bit mean really. I tracked them across the moor and then along the lanes and we reached Clough Head CP together. I grabbed some foo, had a swig of coke and followed them up the lanes. I knew Ambi had recceed the track by Macc Forest and was not a fan. I was slightly ahead at the junction and decided to stick with what I knew and my GPX. The track is a little shorter and although gnarly I wasn't sure I wanted more tarmac even if I could run faster to make up for the extra distance. For me it was the correct decision. I had the track to myself and wonderful views of Manchester's night lights. Emerging onto the road near Walker Barn I had no way of knowing if I was ahead. The road was nasty although at least after the first few 100 metres there was a pavement of sorts.

Running down the minor road into Rainow I started to doubt myself. The road and houses seemed to stretch on for ever and I was starting to think that I had somehow missed the CP even though the GPX said all was good. I hadn't realised tat Kerridge End, Brookhouse and Rainow almost merge into one.  I had only been in the CP a minute or so when Paul arrived. He had used the road. He also knew the route very well and was happy for me to tag along for the next section. We left just as Ambi arrived. I am sure I would have found the way but it was good to chat and not to have to worry about the nav for a while. Once on the canal we agreed we didn't need to stick together although in the end our speed was so similar that we pretty much did. The canal was much shorter than in my memory so that was a massive bonus. From the Whitely Green CP we were on the disused rail track cycle path. At least it was dark and we couldn't see it stretching ahead. Again it was shorter than in my memory and Paul guided me expertly onto Towers Lane. This really did seem to go on and on but I was also determined to try to keep running and not let Ambi catch me. Eventually the lane ended and we turned right for the final section up the main road to the finish. Paul could smell the finish and gained second wind. I did the best I could and overtook one runner near the A555 By pass. It was a joy to see the railway bridge and know the finish was only metres away.

I hadn't made midnight but that was always going to be a big ask. I was chuffed with 12hrs 34 and to be 3rdF, 1st FV50 (possibly FV40) and 12th overall. Andrew finished just behind me, then Julian and then Ambi. The finish man suggested I clipped my tally but then didn't want it- apparently lots of entrants keep them as souvenirs (must be a Scout think like the Fellsman). I had several cups of tea plus two fried egg sandwiches before staggering out to my tent. My legs and feet felt more trashed than after the GRP thanks to the hard surfaces and I struggled to get to sleep at first. I did sleep and remember waking very hot and lying on my sleeping bag not in it, the wind getting quite strong in the early hours and some guys in the next tent being inconsiderate and noisy when they arrived for bed. By 7am I was up and ready for a second breakfast. By 8 I was ready for an other short lie down and actually fell asleep. Soon after 9 I was up, packed away my tent and took down all the Runfurther flags and banners. It was good to be able to congratulate others like Steve, Charlotte, Nick and Janet on their finish plus to applaud Rory's win at the prize giving. Ian had sadly pulled out with a groin strain and had his first ever DNF.

Rory- miles ahead at Miller's Dale

So 56 miles done and the Grand Slam s till on. Next year will be their 50th event (51st year but missed one due to Covid)......

Summer and another 100 miler

 Van issues had me guessing for ages  and even when we crossed to France not all was perfect but we made it. I love the GRP and turning up in Vielle Aure is like going home. We parked up by the river in our usual spot and lazed. 

My mate- promised not to leave it 3 years again

On my first wander into the village I was hailed by an old friend who lives in the village, he came across for a hug and to ask why I had been missing for 3 years. We are always made so welcome.

Our usual spot between farm and river

Arriving on Tues evening gave us plenty of time to chill. Probably a good plan as we had been very busy on the drive down through France with masses of climbing, VF and SUP.  I was a bit anxious that a daft swim across a lake had twisted and damaged my left knee but it seemed OK once I was warmed up. The race has grown massively since my first visit 10 years ago. 

There is a whole suite of races now and the official parking fields have grown too. Otherwise it is the same friendly low key event that I love. On Wednesday we walked along the river to St Lary and soon spotted the Sunters and Mark having breakfast in a cafe. 

We joined them for coffee. Mark and Albert were doing the Tour de Cirgues which promised some excellent scenery including Gavernie. Michelle was doing the 40km and looking forward to the shorter race. After a slow amble we had our standard panini for lunch before wandering back across the fields. It was the coolest we had been all holiday but not cold.  

Thursday was spent faffing with gear, race vest and drop bags. I registered early and also left my drop bags early- once that was done I could faff no more! This time the Sunters met us in Vielle Aure for coffee. 

We had another panini lunch and then walked downstream to the little lakes and fitness park. I wanted an early night but needed to do some exercise or there would be no chance of sleep. There had been some drizzle today and I was now praying for decent weather even if the paths would be wet and muddy.

Spectacular scenery

I slept as well as could be expected for a 4am alarm call and after a quick porridge pot and coffee was ready to walk to the village square via the toilets.

 Bob left me at the bridge and after a quick kiss was off towards Vignec.

Missed Laurant in Florac and never met up with Guillaume at GRP

 I had hoped to meet Guillaume, my Transpyrenea mate, but couldn't find him amongst 900 runners. I did bump into Martin on the start line though. The pre start was the usual, squat, rise, clapping, and emotive music. 

5am start

I was determined not to sprint off knowing how easy it is to get carried away in the dark along the flat tarmac to Vignec.  I spotted Bob and then settled into an easy pace into Vignec knowing we would all soon be walking up the steep hills. It was dark under the trees and I put my torch on. It was dry but cloudy and not really very cold. I was glad that back before the start I had put my lightest cag on over my race vest so that it was easy to pull off.

The climb up to La Cabane was just as steep as I remembered and despite my cautious start I was there in roughly the same time as previous years. Emerging from the trees was good and there was some running before the long steady climb to the Col de Portet which just gets steeper and steeper the closer you get. 1500m climbed already. No sun rise this year but some amazing temperature inversions with the beautiful sea of clouds.

Bastan- Campana area. Beautiful

The first CP and Merlans is after 15km and a huge climb. I am always slightly anxious of the cut off here which is daft as I arrived after about 2 hrs and so had almost 90mins to spare. It is always a relief to get past there and feel that you are settling into the race. I stopped for a mouthful of food but did not really need much. I love the next section past the lakes, bivy spots and refuges of Bastan and Campana. It's not the most runnable terrain but it is wild and beautiful. The paths were muddier this year and the fords soon soaked my shoes. There seemed to be more runners going at my pace this year and although not crowded I certainly had company here.

What seems to have become the standard approach to Merlans was a bit grim. Going up to Serpolet was not too bad but the mud and soaked and flattened grass on the other side was far from easy. I was now caked in mud to mid calf and going very slowly to try to stay upright.  I have to say that my 'new favourite' shoes VJ Ultras were awesome. The grip was great and although they got very wet they also shed water quickly. Dropping to La Mongie I heard my name- quite a surprise here. It was Guillaume's elder son and then a bit lower down the pastures I spotted his other son. Dad was apparently somewhere behind me. This year we were funnelled inside at the CP which was good as we were away from the crush of supporters and it made me more determined to stop and eat, drink and refill my bottles. Leaving the CP I spotted Guillaume's wife too. 

It was getting warm now but still rather cloudy. I was OK with a thin short sleeve and a thin long sleeve top and glad I had opted for shorts. AS we contoured the hillside there were multiple streams and so very wet feet but before long I joined the path that the Transpy used and was caught up in memories.  Knowing that due the construction work we would not be going up the Pic du Midi helped motivate my climb up to the Col de Sencours. Another 1800m climbed since Col de Portet, 3298m total with some big drops too. The tiny CP was rammed but I found a quiet corner and made sure I ate and refilled my bottles. We had been warned that there would be no water until Hautacam as the dry weather meant the usual source was not safe. It was now getting much warmer and in the sunshine we could see the peak of Pic du Midi. 

I love the run to Hautacam. It is wild, nobody other than us runners and lots of it is quite runnable- well not the three big climbs but most of the rest. Volunteers on Col de la Bonida, Cold'Aoube and Col de Bareilles are also super friendly and encouraging. There are some technical descents but they seemed slightly better than I remembered, perhaps because they were wet not dusty. I was running well, perhaps too fast but happy. There were fewer people around me now and it was just a shame that the weather was not allowing the usual views. Despite the warnings there was water at the cabane, perhaps they had taken a filter up with them as they were ratioing what we took. It was still very welcome. I was still hoping that Guillaume might catch me but it was not to be. His family were not at Hautacam and I worried that he had dropped out. Turns out he did at La Mongie after a fall tore a hole in his knee. Shame.

At Hautacam I always get cold when I stop. Now the tiny room is not large enough and they use a tent in the basement it is even worse. I stopped for soup and food and realised I was shivering so put my cag back on. The Samu lady came across to chat- she recognised me from previous years and it was nice to chat. She offered me a bed and blanket but I was keen to get going and use the day light. My old friend that used to marshall there has retired but the new staff were just as lovely. I forget how many times I had now been asked, by volunteers and runners, how old I was. Maybe I should get a T shirt printed. Almost 4000m climbed now.

Big climbs to cols

From Hautacam the route had changed. Instead of the road we were taken up and up across a hillside with no real path just a band where the worst of the vegetation had been cut back. Contouring on this narrow, steep muddy path was not fun and I was so pleased when eventually we turned onto better terrain and actually started heading for Pierrefitte. We were soon near the beehives and on familiar territory with a decent track that gradually dropped to the village floor. East running through a village led to the main road and then the nasty little path by the hydro pipes and the final lane into town. Town was crowded but the support was nice. The CP was much less crowded than I had feared. I made straight for a quiet corner by the fire doors and so had fresh air and space. I got food and then concentrated on retaping my feet and adding dry socks. Doing this DIY was much faster than waiting for the professionals and my feet were actually in pretty good shape considering how damp they had been. I swapped my damp long sleeve for a clean one but decided to keep my Transpy shirt on. I like the high collar that stops and rubs from my shoulder straps and it was proving an interesting conversation starter. I could feel a rub mark on my back and asked a supporter to tape it for me- turns out she was a volunteer on the Transpy this year. 

So many just WOW moments

From Pierrefitte there are some seriously big climbs including the dreaded Col d'Ilheou with about 2500m on it's own! First though came a steep climb through the woods before easier climbs that led along a section of tarmac that I had not run before to Estaing. Somewhere here it got dark enough for me to need my torch. The scouts that usually man the CP in the tiny ski resort at Aulan were here instead. What a wonderful bunch they are. We were waited on hand and foot with nothing too much trouble. I decided I would like hot chocolate- they had none but had milk, dark chocolate and a microwave. The end results was yummy. They had there usual pancakes and I had several. The lady remembered me being so so sick a few years ago but eventually being tempted to eat two plain pancakes. This year I tried for a lie down but it was too bright and noisy so after ten minutes I decided just to get on with it. Putting off the Col d'Ilheou was not going to help. I am glad I was not totally alone as the mighty climb took over two and half hours. Alone I think I would have been very dispirited but nobody overtook me and I caught a couple of people. The CP outside the refuge after the Col was not a place to linger in the dark, damp and low cloud. I topped up my water and left. From here to Cauterets was mostly downhill. It wasn't easy but passed more quickly than the huge climb.

The CP in the casino is always a welcome sight in the night and has plenty of space. Here I met one of the volunteers from my Transpy- she had actually been at 3 of the CPs! We chatted as I got more food. The GRP now have lots of rice pudding and it goes down a treat. Again I tried to have a brief sleep but despite a ten minute lie down it was too noisy.  Knowing there was only one big climb in the next section I opted to leave. Col de Riou adds another 1000m but starts fairly easily and is on OK paths. The race now has lots of  relay teams on the 168km route. Spotting their race bibs and checking the colour kept me busy. Yes, race head on now even if I wasn't exactly zooming along. It also meant there were more people to chat with. There was a dreadful mud section that reminded me of the first year I did the race but mostly it was OK. Dawn arrived and another superb inversion and mountain views. No sign of the rain now and today was going to be hot. We missed a turning just before Bedderet and annoyingly had to back track uphill and put it right. Probably only 10 minutes and I think the only bit where I would criticise their flagging. Usually to turn off a big track they put tape across the main path so you know to stop.

I grabbed a bit to eat and then set off on paths I knew quite well to Grust and Sazos, gradually making my way down to Luz. There were a couple of muddy wet sections where the path cuts the zig zag road corners but it got better the lower I went. I had joked about perhaps seeing Albert and Mark here depending on how fast we all were. As it turns out they both bailed in Gavernie and were on a bus in Luz missing me only by minutes. I arrived in town hot and sweaty but knew this CP was less stuffy. I found a quiet spot in a corner and made airing my feet my priority. Some fresh tape and dry socks made a big difference. I had put a change of shoes in both drop bags but there was no way I was swapping my VJs- they were proving very comfortable. I had extra food in this drop bag but really didn't need much. I had been eating at CPs but not eaten much of what I was carrying. I did take time to top up my Mountain Fuel and to make sure I carried two more big doses with me. Once I had eaten it was time to go.

The route to Tournaboup was new to me. I had glanced at the map and seen we were using the north side of the valley but had assumed it was the lower paths that we used in the opposite direction on the Transpy. It wasn't and having my expectations shot felt hard. It was now very hot and there was little shade on this side of the valley. We kept climbing and often seemed to be heading west rather than east as we needed to. In retrospect I can see the altitude difference meant we would have to climb 1000m somewhere but at the time I was not happy. Luckily I made friends here with a small group of guys and chatting to them helped pass the time. I felt a bit guilty as once we could see Tournaboup a few km up ahead that I decided to run away from them but hey ho. We now had Tour de Cirques runners sharing our route and this encouraged me to run more. 

At this CP I ate a huge portion of rice pudding and fruit salad, topped up both water bottles and set out into the glaring sunshine. There are more tourists on this section but the paths were not crowded despite the Tour de Lacs runners joining us. I lost count of how many times I stepped off the path for young men flying along on that course- they were all very appreciative but stopping for 60 runners adds quite a bit of time! There was not much running on the climb to Cabane d'Aygues Cluses but it is a nice route up through increasingly wild rocks and meadows. We had been told there would be no water as the dry summer had reduced the flow at the source and so it was poor quality. It was then a nice surprise to find there was water after all, but no food. The climb to here always takes longer than expected but then to the Col/ Hourquette Nere seems very short. Another 1000m up from Tournaboup and the last truly big climb done. From here I always think the end is in sight.

The views at the Col were amazing and I should have stopped to take photos. Instead I concentrated on running as much as I could of the descent. The open meadows were a joy even where the path was rocky and although once in the woods the path was more tricky I was passing plenty of runners, except those on Tour de Lacs where the race is shorter. The fords were well flooded and I gave up worrying about keeping my feet dry. Before long it was open meadows and the turn up towards Merlans. This climb seems small after all the rest and we were soon on grassland paths with the ski restaurant in sight. 

I have been here in all weathers. Today it was hot and sunny so I sat on the terrace and ate some food. I made friends with a guy who asked my age and it was fun to run off and on with him and his mates all the way to the end. The Col de Portet came quickly with a herd of special Basque sheep with their cloaks and hairdos but the section from there really seemed to drag even though it is reasonable paths. Eventually we started the gradual descent to the gate and then the steep drop through the bracken. On damp soil this was easy this year and I was soon in Soulans. There are always crowds there as it is an easy drive up from the valley. They spurred me on and I was overtaking people now.  I was a bit anxious about the three sections where the path cuts the road corners knowing that these would be wet and greasy but I arrived above Vignec safely. It was now super hot!  

'Sprinting' the river path

I ran through the village and could small the finish. A very brief walk past the campsite and then I ran the whole way along the river path and towards Vielle Aure. Big sings letting us know what distance remained were a great motivator and I felt like I sprinted up onto the bridge and down into the square; I am sure it didn't look like a sprint. A timing mat just before the bridge alerts the red carpet crew of your arrival and so you are announced as you appear. The crowds here were massive and all shouting loudly.

With Carole after crossing the line

Crossing the line Carole came to meet me and behind the barriers was Bob. 

The pic says it all

I took a few moments to get my breath but was happy and not as trashed as I have sometimes been.

From before half way in the race I had been hoping to beat the other FV60 and then found out she had been timed out. I was then hoping I could beat the FV50s but was not at all sure this would happen. 

When I checked at Cauterets I think I only had a buffer of one hour- not necessarily enough and so I was super happy to find I was in fact 1st FV50. 

I collected my medal and finisher hoody before meeting Bob for photos. There was food on offer but it was CP food and I really wanted something with more taste. 

In the end I had a beer. It was cool enough not to need to jump in the fountain this year  but warm enough to sit on the steps chilling and cheering in other runners. 

Loads of  people came to congratulate me.  The next day I did soak my legs in the cold river water.

I was very keen to get a shower so we wandered back to the van where I collected all my stuff before walking to the shuttle bus (the showers are on a nearby campsite). Once clean and fed I fell into bed and slept really well- no hip aches this year.

Sunday is the prize giving and closing buffet. The awards go on a bit as every local mayor plus all sorts of others talk for ages. We sat at the cafe through the first part but still moved to stand in the sun too early. I kept my perfect record of a podium on every visit to the race. 38 hrs 05, 1st FV50 and 60, 12th F overall. 

It was crazy hot standing in the buffet queue but well worth it once through the gate. The food is amazing and free beer and wine as usual. We both over ate and I had lots and lots of beer. Martin S came over to chat and congratulate me. 

We finished the day off with a walk into St Lary for ice cream.  So an ultra fuelled by rice pud, beer, panini, Mountain Fuel raw energy powder and a months worth of filled pasta, salad and wine.