The Bullock Smithy Hike

It was the 40th running of this event and we all received a very nice bone china mug to celebrate. It was also the 9th race in the Runfurther calendar this year; important for those of us doing the Grand Slam. After a week of big and high walks in the mountains I thought my body had recovered from the GRP. It hadn't. It turned into a long tough day where at times I struggled to remember this was meant to be fun.

 The race starts at 12 noon, presumably so that we all do some of the route in the dark? We drove down early and met up with Nick to put up banners and flags. It left plenty of time to chat. I had repacked at breakfast as Preston was so cool and cloudy. Now as it was getting warm I was regretting this and later really wished I had kept to my small sack.

George has done all 40 Hikes

At 11.30 we were herded down to the small park where the race starts and lined up to collect our tallies. There was the usual debate about which of 3 different start routes to take.

Initially I felt strong and raced off down the road, over the fields and golf course towards Lyme Park. Julie was supporting at the hotel and I stopped for a brief chat before heading off for Furness Vale.

By the time we crossed Hayfield Road after CP3 I knew I was struggling. Barney and Mike skipped off uphill towards Edale Cross and I plodded on.

 There were plenty of tourists out but I made good time down Jacobs ladder and David W did not get far ahead. Edale village hall at 18 miles was the first food except biscuits or jelly babies. The fruit salad and rice pud went down a treat but although I tried I was struggling to eat any of my own food. The next section was a reverse of the Long Tour of Bradwell- up to Hollins Cross and then down to Castleton.

 I grabbed a sandwich and topped up my bottle. I manage most of the sandwich but it was not enough. Stomping up Cave Dale I did my best not to let David and the others get too far ahead. It was like being on a bit of very old elastic; the gap increased and then I pulled it back again. This continued all the way to Peak Forest. Perhaps I was just pushing too hard and need to accept that I am just not as fast as those guys. It was a real effort and two pieces of an orange and a handful of crisps were not going to fill the gap. I tried a chia bar but didn't manage much really. Somewhere around here I started really resenting the amount of road/tarmac. True most (except the km or so on the A623) were quiet roads but my feet were feeling it and almost the whole section to Millers Dale and Chelmorton and Earl Sterndale and beyond was on tarmac.

 I hung on to the back of the group until the Millers Dale CP. Two cups of soup went down well and I topped up my bottle again. Barney and Mike had gone awol and were also there but not for long. They, David and others pulled ahead on the road and then on the broken road of the limestone way. It was also here that second lady came past. She was running well but taking some strange route options that included sticking to the real roads. Anne Johnson was supporting Bill and still at Chelmorton when I arrived. She kindly offered me her road shoes when I said my feet were trashed. Instead I made do with half a doughnut and pushed on. The weather had been wonderful and the views superb.

The fact I took so few photos shows how hard I was having to try and then how my head was not in the right place. But the evening was beautiful and it kept my spirits up. Thank goodness it wasn't raining.

The CP at Earl Sterndale is next to an unusual pub 'The Quiet Woman'. There wasn't much I fancied so just a bit of fruit and a handful or crisps.We had respite from the road until Dowel Dale and then again through Booth Farm and up to Brand Top. It was getting dark and the temperature was plummeting. I waited a little too long to don my thermal top and gloves and then spent ages trying to warm up.I knew I needed to eat more, that a torq gel and mouthful of chia bar was not enough. I managed a hot dog sausage and half the bun. Nick caught me up here and was clearly enjoying himself and having a good run. He was on for a PB and set of fart powered to Hilltop. In the growing dark he and one other guy pulled ahead and I was on my own. I wasn't worried as I had recceed this bit in the summer but I did have a moment of doubt after Knotbury and then lost the path in a bog before the climb to the A54. I now know there are two ladders up to the road and my torch was aiming at the wrong one. The stony track to Cumberland cottage was every bit as bad as I remembered, although it had been fine on relatively fresh legs on my reccee. This CP gets my award. From over a km away they spotted runners and started up cow bells, klaxons and cheering. A real welcome to a beautiful spot. As with all the CP staff they were kind, positive and encouraging.I knew that from here it was road, canal tow path and cycle track almost all the way back. At least it might be kinder to my toes? but then my skin and achilles started to complain. A different group caught me up on the long pull up Charity Lane and I managed to stay with them until Walker Barn. Nick was just leaving as I arrived but I needed to go in and top up my water. Sadly I could not face the cake on offer. I kept them and torches in sight until Kerridge but then they too pulled away and I was alone again.It was a shame as my route was less than perfect and I lost time in Bollington again. Nick knows a good way down to the canal that would have saved me 10 minutes. Unusually I was pleased to arrive on the canal tow path. I had started to wonder if I could finish or if I did just how long it would take. I power walked with a bit of jogging and arrived at Whiteley Green CP.  I must have looked a state but the 3 guys manning it were very positive and complimentary. One even escorted me to the cycle track on the old railway. Five miles to go. At this rate it felt like it would take me forever. I stomped along the best I could trying hard to run every now and again. I was alone except for a bike that went past. I did even think of asking for a backy! Leaving the cycleway at Coppiceside I was aware of running feet and torches. A whole group appeared. I perked up a little and was pleased to be led along a slight short cut. A few ran off but most were as trashed as me and struggling to keep up the running. The slow slight uphill from the garden centre on the Macclesfield road seemed like a very long 800m and I was wasted when I finished.  Nick didn't quite get his PB but beat me by 14 minutes and finished with David W in 12.20. In the end I was happy not to be further behind! Nigel had a great run in 11.19,  Ian S was second in in 9.35 and the smiley pair  Barney and Mike in 11.27. Bill completed in 11.39 and so gained almost an hour on me in the second half. I think despite all this I was third lady (the results show 2nd but I am sure one is missing).

Picture says it all- but I didn't actually cry

 So the Grand Slam is still on. However, note to self- body needs longer than a fortnight to recover from a big race like GRP. Need to consider whether I do the LDMT and I need fresh legs for Hardmoors 60.

The van has never seemed so welcome. After a meal of egg, bacon and toast washed down with milkshake I staggered that far. Bob boiled me water to wash my face and a bloodied knee and I fell into bed. Prize giving was at 10 so we had a lie in before I had our normal breakfast and then blagged another egg, bacon and toast one.

Post GRP in the Pyrenees

Sunday was a little surreal after a lack of sleep and disturbed night for both of us. We joined the crowd in the village square mid morning for the prize giving. After a couple of spots of rain the weather turned warm and dry again.  Leaving the van first thing my feet felt mashed and my achilles screamed but after a few hundred yards things improved dramatically. My quads were almost fine. The winning man still looked trashed- an emotional and physical wreck but an awesome time of 26 hours and a few seconds. After many congrats we joined the Sunters and Marlows for a beer or two.  Tim had bought tickets for the buffet but thought they would miss their bus and kindly gave them to us.

We joined Charmain and Steve in the field and having plated up masses of food in the marque we sat down to put back what the weekend had taken out. It took several trips to the food tables.  A long chat over a cup of tea in their van rounded off the day. Monday was a chores and recovery day- laundrette, supermarket and ice cream!
We then had a week of superb weather. Hot, dry and sunny. We didn't run but managed some incredible walks with fantastic views. As always we ran out of time and energy rather than routes to explore.

First up was a trip to the entrance of the tunnel to Spain at the head of our valley. The map only showed through routes over the cols but the ridge looked as if it could be walked. It could.

We had a great day exploring on surprisingly good paths considering they were not even on the map.
A drive over to Tournaboup sounded straight forward. After two mountain passes with hairpins etc the van was pleased to stop for the night.

 It was now getting seriously hot again but reasonably cool at the top of the Col de Tourmalet where we spent the night.

It felt strange driving through la Monjie and seeing the paths we had run on.
The next day was a circuit from Tournaboup up and over the col, past many lakes, views down to the big reservoir lakes and then back down the reverse of the race route from the cabin in the grassy pasture.

 We had tried to do the ridge between the cols again but after getting half way and over the first two peaks it seemed to peter out and we lost confidence and turned back. We had the place to ourselves for the first half of the day but saw more walkers in the afternoon.

Driving down to Luz was even stranger- thinking ' I ran through here too'. We found a gem from here. A drive up to Gedre and a desperate but failed search for bread led us to Heas and a wonderful valley. It was very quiet with just a couple of vans and by parking before the toll road and walking up instead we had a quiet route round the whole of the Cirque de Tromouse.

It might not be as famous as Gavernie but in some ways was more impressive as the cliffs surrounded you. The scenery here was totally different with lots of pasture below the cliffs and scree. We wandered at will and only as we neared the toll road parking and the madonna did we meet crowds of people. Predictably we lost them again as we walked back down the mountain to the van and they drove.

Our first sight of Gavernie filled us with horror. Crowds, payant parking for miles and still no bread shop?

 We dropped down the valley for peace and quiet and spent the evening on a via feratta and then slept there too.

An early morning start back up to Gavernie in search of bread found the places almost deserted. Clearly tourists get up late to potter. The bread shop was not open but the chef from the hotel was putting rubbish in the bins and kindly offered to sell me two bagettes when I asked. We still had no map but I reckoned the routes would be well way marked here and so not an issue.

 Up at the Col de Tentes there were more vehicles as the 'real' walkers gathered here. We set out for the Refuge and Breche de Roland.

 Despite Bob's best efforts to trip and smash himself up yet again we made good time. He has made a habit of leaving skin and blood on most of our walks recently. Once through the Breche we continued on a fairly easy path to Pic Taillon.

The views across Spain, into the Vignamale and even back to the Pic du Midi Bigore were amazing.

 I normally avoid out and back routes but we really had little choice and it didn't seem to matter much.

Bob needed a recovery day. His finger was an odd shape and his knee twisted, bruised and sore. My feet probably benefitted from the easier day too.

We walked along a grassy ridge with two smaller peaks but views into the cirques and then a second walk past a lake and over a col to Pic entre le portes. Again we risked routes not shown on a map and were rewarded with solitude and small paths.

A great day of soaking up the views and sunbathing.
The finale was a big day from Pont d'Espagne. We drove up through Cauterets and found a huge car park. It said no campervans overnight so we just ignored it and turned all the lights off early.

It was a superb walk to end on with an easy almost level walk in to Refuge du Clot and then a bit of climb to the huge Refuge Wallen. Much of this was through a beautiful valley complete with waterfalls etc.

 From this refuge we climbed to Col Fache and then having rested we went on the scramble to the Grande Fache at 3144m. 

We met a guy tracking the bouquetin they had reintroduced to the area last year (hunting and natural causes had totally depleted them). The return route allowed tiny for skinny dipping in a very cold tarn and then a long slow soak and wash in the river back at the van. Most people were taking 3 days over this walk which seemed excessive, although they did have big packs for hut to hut walks.

Cauterets  gave us a chance to replenish our food stocks and buy yet more ice cream. Time to leave the Pyrenees sadly but we agreed we had enjoyed it enormously and would be back. As we left and drove north through France the weather turned cooler and damper. Stops in Chartres and Etapes relieved the boredom of the long drive and allowed us to stretch our legs.

Comparing the UTMB and the GRP

So many people have asked me about how they compare that I gave it a bit of thought.  First I should say that I loved both and appreciate the difference in races in all sorts of ways. Their different terrain, scenery, people, atmosphere, scale and quirks are what make them all fun.
The GRP is much bigger, more commercial and set in a bigger town.  It attracts more runners and bigger sponsors. The Chamonix party atmosphere that takes over the whole town for a week or so was not the same. The lack of coloured wrist bands meant you were not sure who was running, or what race, and who were just tourists out running in the days before. There was no 'village' of stalls and promotional stands instead just 2 or 3 including New Balance and Overstim in the field next to the marque. This also affects the prizes and prize giving. At the GRP there was one prize giving for all the next morning. With fewer numbers and sponsors the categories were 10 years not 5, with 3 on the podium not 5, lower value prizes and more local prizes like a side of Bigore dark pork! There also seemed to be a slight touch of chauvanism with the mens prizes being greater than the womens. Still we don't race for the prizes more the glory, or not. One thing that was nicer at the UTMB was a better T shirt and the finishers gillet.

Bumping into friends at the UTMB was far from certain whereas at the GRP it was easy and so very sociable. The buffet after the prize giving was great too- lots of food and lots of variety. Plus in a tiny village almost all beer from just 2 bars about 20m apart.

The main difference for me is the GRP having a 5am start and so only 1 night of running not 2. The small village and low key nature made the GRP a very friendly event. It was slightly harder to get info as they do not publish glossy brochures etc but their web site was good enough. The UTMB is more international and the GRP more French. They had a spread of nationalities but not to the same extent. French was the common language for most, except the Spannish who seemed to prefer English. The other way there was less info was the lack of scrolling screens at major CPs and so supporters were less sure (and for some the SMS system failed) and as a runner I could not see competitors so easily.

The scenery in both is stunning. The UTMB probably goes through higher mountains with glaciers nearby etc but somehow at the GRP I felt I was more in the wilds and  not just looking at it in the distance. The terrain at the GRP was a little rougher with a few more technical paths. For many, mine included, it seemed tougher on the feet.
I would cheerfully do either again and would recommend both to any friends wanting a foreign ultra.

The Grand Raid de Pyrenees

I never sleep that well before a race, especially if the start is very early. A hot van did not help but I slept more than I had hoped and was up at 4am for porridge.

 By 4.30 I was itching to go and we walked up to the village square which was already filling up with runners and supporters.

Once my timing chip was bleeped I searched out toilets and friends. I soon founnd Tony and Albert.

The 30 minutes flew by and despite the dark a torch barely seemed necessary amongst all the other runners. With a couple of km on lanes to spread us out I was anxious of setting off too fast. I saw Tony up ahead but let him go. I waved at Bob as we crossed the bridge and then at Heather and Naimh as we neared Vignec. Support would be a bonus later in the race. On the zig zags out into the hills I passed Forest and Tracy and people settled into a happy plod in the dawn light. La Cabanne seemed to come much more quickly today and we were soon out of the chalets and onto the pistes. The first 14km has a climb of 1509m; a great way to start the morning. I was glad that I knew what to expect here as the climb to the small road tunnel and then up to the Col de Portet is particularly steep.

 The sun was just appearing over the ridges as I crested the col. Running down to Merlans, a ski restaurant I met Tim who said he was struggling.

I dashed in to the toilet (dodgy tummy already?), grabbed a bit of food and set off into the unknown.

 The path from here was a joy as it hugged the hillside round and up into the Bastan valley full of lakes.

This is where I had hoped to see down to from our second walk. The climb over the Col de Bastanet passed quickly and I was settling into a steady pace with just slight concerns about an iffy tummy.

 The section from the Col de Bastanet could be my favourite. My notes warned me that it would be technical but the rock was dry and grippy, the boulders fairly solidly set and I loved it. I could not believe how many men I overtook even on the downhills.

We passed two mountain huts and it was good to have the support of all the walkers. The spray as we crossed the small bridge after the barrage of Lac Greziolles was very welcome.

It was only early morning but already hot and clearly going to get hotter.

 On the track heading to La Mongie I passed a jaded Albert; he hates the heat and was already struggling.

Climbing over the avalanche sheds to the ski resort I spotted Tony and we ran into the CP together.

 I headed for the toilet again but at least my tummy still felt like eating. After last year at the UTMB this was one of my biggest worries.

 I tried banana, salami, chocolate, oranges and then grabbed some energy bars for later, determined to eat well and early. Tony decided to wait for Albert and I was slightly disappointed not to run together at all. Leaving the village it was a shock to go downhill for a km or so as we were heading for the Pic du Midi. Ah well.

 One more urgent toilet break and now all seemed well. I felt strong and despite the growing heat stormed up to the Col de Sencours even having overtaken a few people on the way. I never used my maps or description info but did use the spreadsheet with distances, climbs and times on it.

The reception we got here was fantastic. The marshalls and the tourists were great and their cheering and kind words really helped. The out and back up the Pic du Midi was a bugger in the heat but it was good to cheer other runners as we passed each other.

 It was now well over 30C and even I had dug my cap out and been soaking it in any streams I came to. Up to the Col is almost 500m and then the Pic another almost 500m. It was great to see Heather and Niamh at the top and I really enjoyed my run down- the path apart from the very top is big enough to drive a 4x4 up and so there is plenty of space for those going up and down, both runners and tourists.

 Back at the Col I filled up my water after warnings that the next section was long dry. I also grabbed a load more food. In addition to theirs I was also eating home made flapjack with chia seed and using the odd torq gel. I was eating lots and happy to do so.

Soon after the Col our route diverged from the one Bob would follow later. The scenery was stunning and the paths wonderful.

 My main memory of this section was running round two sides of Lac Bleu and just wishing we could stop for a cooling swim. This was followed by another 1000m climb up to Hourquette d' Ouscouaou. I was now roasting but bouyed up by the supporters telling me I was third lady.

 I tired a bit over the section to Hautacam and should have eaten more. The heat was making it hard to swallow dry food. Rice pud, custard even yogurt would have been good.I love the sun but it was a relief to enter the CP and find shade and food.  I spent more time here than I had intended but wanted to make sure I did eat and that just was not a speedy process.

Some runners were stretched out on beds- perhaps the heat as it seemed a bit early for a kip to me. The next sections of over 20km were mostly downhill. I set off with two guys in the hope that together we would run more. It was a struggle after the stop and my feet were starting to complain big style. I had convinced myself that once I could see Pierrefitte town then the CP would only be minutes away. Ha ha. the drop to the valley floor was huge plus we then did a huge loop south to skirt the town and even climbed slightly before finding our way to the CP. This was perhaps my low point. The marshalls were great and my drop bag appeared. A friendly guy waiting for his friend got me soup and I was emotional and close to tears. I needed food but was struggling with solids. I was so pleased I had put the milkshake in my drop bag. I slid down a treat and was followed by two bowls of soup and some bread and flap jack. In the midst of this I inspected my feet. Oh dear. They were a white spongey wrinkled mess, and sore. I tried to tape them a bit but with damp feet really it just wasted 10 minutes. Dry socks was the best I could do. meanwhile the 4th lady had appeared. I shot off without my water and luckily only got 100m up the road before I realised. I now knew I was being chased. If it was down and down into the CP it was now up and up on the way out.

 The scenery was different though with wide grassy tracks up through woods and bracken covered slopes. Towards the tops it seemed more like cattle country and there was even mud. By the tented CP at the top of Pouy Droumide  it was dark enough to need our torches. Eating here the 4th lady appeared and we got chatting. Marcia was american chinese and lives in Hong Kong so we had things in common. I left before her but on the way up the Col de Contente she passed me and was going strong. Oh well, keep at it you never know. This climb was a real pig and the tapes ignored the zig zag paths instead taking us straight up. The organisers had kindly not only flagged the route but in several places had used a long ball of string in case of really low cloud. It took a lot out of me and I was slower than I had hoped descending into Cauterets. From here on my memory is more hazy (thank god, the report will get shorter I hear you say). I might even have muddled the slopes up out of here with the ones from Pierrefitte. I do remember the ski pistes leading into Aulian and the heavy rock music blasting out as the scouts manning the CP were having a great party. A kind medic saw me struggling to eat and gave me something to settle my stomach. I made myself stop and eat and was lucky to leave with two friendly guys. We ran almost all the way to Luz together until they got ahead on the slippery sections of a small path. In Luz we were joined by runners on the 120km route. I should have realised the implications of this. The food station was busy and crowded but worse the infirmery had a queue. I managed to eat and then having collected my drop bag checked my feet. Not great. The soles felt on fire, my heel bones were sore and the only tape doing much good was the bit I put on my toes the night before. I decided I had to go and get them sorted before I set off in dry socks. Marcia wanted me to leave with her but I just wasn't ready. I regret this now but..... it is easy to think of if only.  Twenty minutes later with my feet nicely taped and protected I set off into the sunshine. I was sad to have dropped to 4th but knew in my heart that without getting my feet sorted I might not even finish. The climb to Tournaboup stretched forever with cruel descents and mini climbs all the way. As I crossed the car park I was overjoyed to see Charmain and she was so positive and really bouyed me up.I couldn't eat much despite her efforts to tempt me and decided the best bet now was just to get on with it. My next few km were slow but it was the best I could do. Once up at Aygues Cluses I perked up a bit even though the climb to the main col was still to come. At some point after the col of Hourquette Nere the cloud increased and it started to rain. I ignored this until it got heavy and then paniced that it might not stop before I was soaked. I stopped to get my cag on. So then of course the rain stopped.

The woods towards Lac de l'Oule were getting muddy but not too bad yet. As I headed towards Merland the rain started again but heavier. I worried about being cold going over the col and got my cag out again. How I would later rue these wasted minutes. Before Merlans I had taken it off again.

Suddenly I realised the end was near. I ran on towards Merlans, was slightly irritated at having to go inside and back out again to get bleeped and then set off up the Col de Portet at a good pace. We had not recceed the return loop but I knew roughly where we were. The initial descent on steep stony piste was torture for my feet but as we dropped to Espiaube and the gradient reduced this improved. The little path through the woods was great and the interesting twists and turns took my mind off my sore feet but then the rough track from Granges de Lias was torture again. I could not wait to get on more level ground. I ran into Vignec but really struggled to make myself run the very slightly downhill section of  smooth tarmac from there to Vielle Aure. Two short walk sections were needed. At the edge of the village I almost cried when I saw the way they were diverting us to the town square and adding about 300m. The crowds helped for the final run in and the red carpet and big blow up gantry made us feel like heroes. I was welcomed in to the square and up onto the commentary truck.  Forest and Dibgy were sat and the cafe with a beer and came straight across to congratulate me. I was too tired to care but did not get a photo at this point.Yes, I was disappointed to have lost 3rd lady even if it was only by 2 mins, in fact that made even more annoying. There were no rolling screens at CPs like in the UTMB so I had no easy way of knowing how far ahead Marcia had been.

 But I was overjoyed to have finally finished, to have beaten all my expectations of time and to be first vet (40 or 50) as the only other vet was second lady.

 I cooled my feet in the fountain and having recovered a little headed for the van to collect my shower stuff. Getting organised seemed to be a mamouth task but I was eventually ready for the navette to the showers and it was worth it. I arrived back at the van and collapsed into bed.

I had then hoped to go up to the square for beer, pizza and to cheer Tony in. Sadly the weather had other ideas. I lay in bed listening to the rain which at first was not too bad but then got torrential with thunder and lightning mixed in. I guessed Tony would forgive me for not being there and that he would not want to hang around anyway. I hoped Bob and Michelle were safe from the storm- perhaps being held at Merlans? The next thing I knew it was the early hours of the morning and Bob was back. His race had been stopped for those at his pace above Tournaboup. They were turned back from the col and then bussed home. He was understandably very disappointed and initially rather confused as where he was there was little rain at that point.  He got the T shirt but had been denied Pic du Midi and then denied finishing despite being ahead of his schedule. Checking the results to find he would have probably have been 2nd V70 just rubbed salt into the wound. The prize giving in the morning was follwed by beer and then the buffet. Albert had pulled out due to the heat, Forest and Tracy stopped with heat and trashed feet. Tony was pleased with his time and so was Michelle. Digby had a storming run to finish 10th! I would go back and have compared the GRP and UTMB but I will save that for later.