The summer was awesome. I love being away in our van at ant time but this summer after so much had been cancelled it felt even more special. The weather was fantastic with virtually no rain in over 7 weeks- we had one sight seeing day in slight rain and another where we opted for a short morning bike ride. Almost the whole time was sport rock climbing and driving from crag to crag. Living out of the van meant our only contact with people was food shopping. There were few on the crags, especially when as mad foreigners we climbed in places they won't go in the summer. It was a bit hot- we had to stop climbing at Seynes because the rock got too hot and a few times we got back to the van to find it super heated to 46C.
We revisited some old favourites but also found new places. After no climbing for a few months in the UK the start was a bit of a knock back but we soon got back into it and after a week or so were back to pushing our standard. We are always on the look out for new crags to break the journey and so we tried some north of Dijon. Vertus was OK but very inconsistent with the grades. Cohon was OK and one climb- Green Lizard was lovely. We also discovered Geligny.
Bourmont was awful and I doubt it is ever used now. Vieville had some but wasn't that great. Mont Rome is a lovely hill top but we were shocked to find some routes with no chain at the top and the 'easy' slabs are awful. We got a fair bit done at Fixin and found a new quiet camp spot too.
Cambolle Musigny was new to us and we liked it as it was not polished.
Bouilland entertained us for several days with many climbs and a walk. It was very hot but hardly anybody was there. Idyllic spot for the van- except for the wasps.
We had been to Cormot before but now found easier access for the van and a deserted place to stay so we could sleep with all the windows open. You don't get views like that on many campsites.
Malzeiu also gave us a river swim (we didn't use a single camp site in over 7 weeks away) and Canargue had a nice cool plateau.
Liaucous was busier than last time but we got up early and had the VF almost to ourselves. We then moved to Millau and waited for a bit of cool and others to disappear. We were treated to amazing displays of the eagles and vultures soaring all around us.
Many of these new VF have optional zip wires and we were starting to think we should buy a pulley each so we could do them. We should have done it earlier really but my Mende had made the decision and found pulleys at a sensible price. Florac was busier than our last visit as it was still peak season. This is possibly one of my favourite VFs with vultures and such an incredible overhang. There are 4 variations on the exit and none are easy. As we were early we were able to do one, reverse a bit of route and go round to have another go. The toughest is a real test!
The VF at Villefort was our last in the area and we managed a lake swim before the weather here turned quite a bit cooler and cloudier. As we left there was low cloud and drizzle. No worries we were moving on to Seynes where we had four scorching days.
We kept running out of water and the rock got too hot to hold but we had a great time and the tufa flows were amazing. We must be climbing hard because apparently my fore-arms are almost as big as my biceps!
Another break from climbing took us to Collias. The VF is not graded particularly hard but it is now polished like sheet glass and was perhaps the scariest one we did all holiday. We were glad of the beach and the river to relax by for the rest of the day. It rejuvinated us enough for us to do the VF in Cavaillon- the first half was sweaty and on the second we were racing the sunset. Another long day with tea at 9.45pm!
Gigondas and the Dentelles are beautiful and we like the climbing there. The sun baked side was predictably empty and we managed to lead a few we had not managed before. After two days here we had pushed our total to 202 climbs. We drove to Buis next but the weather changed suddenly so we had a day shopping in Orange and sight seeing in Vaison la Romain. We had thought about cycling up Ventoux but it stayed in cloud the whole time so we were spared.
The rain didn't last and although the next day was chilly it was perfect for the 3 linked VF.
By the next day on Baume Rouse it was hot and sunny again. Both pushed out standards again. Then we went off to a new to us area Baume Noire. Bit of a dodgy gravel road but all OK in the end and grades were tough here.
A favourite VF is La Caire and they have 3 enormous tyrolienne zip wires so we had to go. Bob still hates the loose wobbly bridge but all in all we had a great time and certainly got value from the pulleys. Compared to renting we have already recouped the cost and we are getting better ta using them. A refreshing swim in the lake before Embrun finished the day off nicely.
The VF at Les Orres isn't hard unless you make it so and only use the rock (photo is a replica of one we have from years ago with Chris stood there) but I wanted to go back and do a massive ridge walk there.
We had done the middle section with the boys when they were small but not the peaks at either end. It was chilly waiting for the ski lift to open at 9am but we were at the front of the queue and in ten minutes were off into the wilds and alone again. All the serious downhill mountain bikers stayed near the resort.
We were soon climbing hard and into the sun. The layers came off and we spent most of the day in shorts and T shirts. We also saw only 5 people until we dropped to the lake and started to make our way back to the resort. we took two wrong turns and just as it was all getting a bit fraught I realised how to save the day. If we jogged the next 600m or so we could get to the middle chair lift and hitch a ride down to a beer! Topped of the day perfectly. The views had been amazing all day and it will live in the memories a long time.
Next stop Orpierre and more sun. It was more crowded than other places we had climbed but people kept their distance.
It was cooler at the start and end of each day plus a fierce wind but we really enjoyed the climbing. By now we felt on fire and spent days doing nothing easier than 5a, mostly 5c, which for us was rewarding. Sadly on the last day on the Quiquillon area a couple of routes had been derigged but we still found 3 really great long routes to challenge us. Autumn was now on the way and we found a new area to climb at Gorges d'Agnielles. The grades were a bit up and down but we had fun and only stopped for lunch at 4pm. It's a tough life...ultra runner does climbing as ultras too.
A river swim on the way to Die gave us a welcome break amongst the bizzare boulders that choke the river. Then I got button-holed by the local fanatic when we stopped for the night at a vulture reintroduction area. He was a nice guy but believed my French to be better than it is. Fortunately I could hardly get a word in edgeways. New treat here too- scrumping for walnuts. We have done the VF at the top of the pass before but enjoyed it again and then had a walk exploring the surrounding hills in the afternoon. I had spotted a great walk up the highest peak in the Vercors - Le Grand Veymont. It was a long walk in from here but more undulating and less steep than from the east. It was as expected a big day out with some superb views, a few crowds at the summit but otherwise quiet and lots of chamois and bouqutin. We also met some of the dogs that guard the sheep from wolves etc. The ones we met early in the morning were not happy yet late afternoon with a huge flock and their shepherd they were fine.
A day off to travel, shop, get organised and recover meant a lovely drive through the gorges at the heart of the Vercors. Again we opted for the gondola up part way to break the worst of the climb. It was hot and sunny again. The limestone here is amazing and the geology just sucks you in. A lovely little spine of rock was going well until we heard a shout behind us. The old guy we had just overtaken had fallen. He had hit his head and very confused. We got him to lie still and tried not to worry too much about the blood flowing from his ear. His wife was understandably in a state. We were in a pocket of no mobile coverage but luckily 3 trail runners arrived. They were French but also spoke good English. They took charge and one ran off to get signal. After an hour it was agreed there was no point us waiting too. We were relieved but felt a bit guilty- more so when it became obvious they were in for a long wait and we only saw the helicopter appear 3 hours later. I powered up Grand Moucherolle which was quite a scramble and was entertained by eagles soaring.
The views south along the whole Vercors escarpment were superb. I had run up here years ago when Bob had done a shorter walk and it was good to share it with him. We carried on over Deux Soeurs and came upon a herd of chamois with their young. Then further on a huge herd of Bouquetin that let us get very close. Another long day and we had to drive off or risk being pinned in my the Tour de France that was due to arrive the next evening. We ended up in a car park which seemed vaguely familiar and we both realised it was the old ski jump above Grenoble that we had run up through on the UT4M a few years ago.
The next day we went to another UT4M area and did some climbing. Again we couldn't stay as we knew Grenoble would be shutting roads for the Tour. It was a hot, stressed and dark drive. We failed to find anywhere suitable to stop and in the end drove all the way up above Chambery to St Jean for a very very late tea and a good nights sleep.
There are two VF here and although the loop to walk back to do the second one is abit annoying it allowed us a lunch break and both are very worthwhile and tough. We knew we had to start making our way home so the next drive took us to an old favourite- Vergisson.
Their wine is expensive but the parking, lavoire, toilets and climbing is great. I love this little village. Today it became even more favourite as I led a 6a. We called in on Vieville to climb on the way back but then it was just a long drive home, the tunnel so we could keep our distance and two weeks of quarantine. Well worth it though - a superb 7+ weeks. We could not possibly have squeezed more in; just how it should be. Live life to the full.
