Sunday 24 October 2021

The Yorkshire Trod

 With no Fellsman this year we needed to find a replacement race- this ticked all the boxes as it was the right length, same area of Yorkshire and a new RO/Due North who welcomed the extra entries and publicity. It goes over fewer peaks and has more trails and so is overall more runnable for most people. Having said that the climb up Simons Seat was brutal.

As always we arrived early to put up flags and banners, drop off mint cake and prizes etc. I stayed and registered before we moved the van to the top of Yarnbury road to cook and spend the night. I slept well - it was proper dark and silent. It was the predictable early start but the forecast was good and it didn't feel as cold as I had feared. I opted for one base layer and my cag- it stayed like that all day with the sleeves up, then down, with the front open and then closed. There were many DNSs so a small group of just over 30 lined up at the top of Grassington before a low key "Off you go". I knew I was going too fast on the easy tarmac downhill when I found myself running with Phil Withnall who went on the win the race. I didn't (couldn't stay with him long. I managed without a torch on the lit streets and then on the big track heading west onto the moors. By then it was first light and Martin Terry had joined me along with a group of 4 guys who had receed the route. Their help at a couple of points was useful although it was me that pointed out we had nearly ignored the first self clip. At Winterburn Reservoir we turned north on the Dales High Way heading for Weets. 

Not my photo

I though Weets was near Barnoldswick but there are two! We continued north to Mastiles Lane and then to Malham Tarn where John Bamber was sunning himself at the car park CP. 

Again- a borrowed photo

We left Malham Tarn going NE to Arncliffe on the old Monks Road. This was lovely and grassy but my hip/groin were bothering me (not the right one as a fortnight ago but the other one!).  By Arncliffe I caught Martin and then grabbled pizza and cake before we set off along the river meadow path to Litton. This should have been beautifully runnable but I was struggling a bit. In Litton I caught Martin again as I called him back to the self clip and then the 4 guys caught us a we dithered at a path junction. It was a stiff climb over the moors before the drop to Buckden. So far almost all the route had been new to me except for a small section at Malham. The others had now pulled ahead although they were still in sight. I expected the next bit to be very easy as I knew the way but then I got distracted. There is an elderly man missing in the area and I spotted somebody sat high on the hill- all alone and not moving for some time. I felt I had to go and check. It took me off route and over some lovely bogs and tussocks. It was just a young guy resting, admiring the view and having a snack. 

You couldn't see that much today

I did eventually make it to the trig on Buckden Pike and amazingly had not lost much time on the 4 guys who were just leaving. It was shrouded in low cloud and not a place to loiter with no views. I then got carried away in Fellsman mode and am still not sure which path is best for descending to Starbotton. My route will not have been used by others as I took an off path sort of straight line as I wanted to be going downhill but to avoid the gnarly tracks. We had route choice from here to Kettlewell. I opted to stay east of the river but would be curious to know how many crossed to the Dales Way which is flatter but less grassy.

Having clipped at the maypole we had an 'allowed' section on road until shortly after Scargill House. The pull up from here was a low point (and it isn't even very steep or long) but my hip was troubling me.  It was further than I had estimated form here to Grassington although it is a lovely path past Conistone Pie and other outcrops. Lovely that is except for the ankle break flap stiles!

At this point I was seriously questioning whether I should stop- I am doing the OMM next weekend and so do not need a dodgy hip. It seemed wise to sit, eat and think. I also found out that I was well over half way and there was only 25 miles to go... queue much amusement from the winners on the 50km " Oh well, if there is only 25miles left that's easy!" Before I could change my mind was off but just in time to hear Mel tell me that the next lady was about 2km behind. I set off anxious about her catching me. 

Typical Dales Way path

The river path was lovely easy running once I fought my way through the tourists heading from the visitor centre to the river and back. My hip seemed slightly better and before long I was in Burnsall and clipping yet again. A short section by the river and then I turned onto a new to me path that would take me up to Appletreewick pasture and then Trollers Gill. I had actually been here once before but in a race where I had others to follow and so took little notice. From Skyreholme it was up and up on the least good path of the day. I have never been so pleased to meet flag-stones as I was here.  

Simons Seat- not mine 

The run down from Simons Seat was lovely and I was both enjoying myself and trying to get as far as I could before dark. Another short section on the riverside Dales Way led me to Barden Bridge and familiar ground again. I made good time up the road onto Barden Moor and even ran some of it. I should really have stopped to get my torch out but there were few cars and I could see fine. One benefit of a small race entry is CP marshalls who are delighted to see you and offer all sorts of services. I got my tally clipped, a cup of tea, a bowl of soup, my water topped up and the offer of having my groin checked out (thanks Stuart). It was now definitely dark and it was good to be on familiar ground and also a big easy track. I did nearly make one mistake but corrected it after 200m- mainly exuberant downhill running got me carried away.  The hip was no worse so I felt I was not adding harm and started to really enjoy myself. I scared loads of birds including a beautiful owl. 

Then from the track gate I turned north to follow the wall over Rylestone fell- past Cracoe Cross and then up to the memorial obelisk. It was less steep than I feared and not as muddy as I expected until the slight descent after the memorial. 

Borrowed from another day- it was very dark today

The boggy path then turns into a good track and turns east to the impressive shooting huts.  I turned to check for torch lights following me yet again but there were none. I did not know the path down to Thorpe but Bob had pushed his bike up it and was not happy. Without a bike and heading downhill it was a joy until it became a slightly greasy walled track closer to the village. It was now mostly downhill, first on tarmac and then across fields to reach the suspension bridge over the Wharfe. I knew that from here it should only be 40 minutes or so and trotted on just being wary of tree roots. The walled path from the river was now deserted as I headed up to the visitor centre. I opted for the village centre roads that were better lit as soon the Devonshire Institute was in sight. A final clip and I was done. Not quite as fast as I had hoped but 14hrs 40 was not so bad. I was lucky to be 1st F and 6th overall. Martin had finished about half an hour ahead of me. Bob had taken down all the flags and banners once it was dark so we didn't have too much to take away with us. I was really hungry and knew I should eat but after a cup of tea and an enormous bowl of Joe's soup I had to admit defeat. I washed most of the mud off my legs and the sweat from my face before heading downhill and to the van. It was too late to drive home now so we spent an extra night in Grassington disturbed only by a sheep bashing the back of the van at about 3am.

This is a wonderful route and should become a classic once more runners know of it. The tracks are runnable, the nav not too hard, the Dales Way is beautiful and so are the stone villages and typical Dales barns. Plus of course the team are lovely and you get amazing soup and cake! Good Luck Due North/ Mel and hopefully there will be bigger numbers next year.

Sunday 10 October 2021

It doesn't always go to plan

 Last weekend was my last real opportunity to complete my run on the 3 Towers Ultra course. Without a RO the race as such would not happen this year but we at Runfurther had decided it could be run 'virtual' on any date within a week of the original race date. The weather on Saturday was pretty dreadful so I waited until Sunday- this was drier but still damp plus the ground was soaked from the previous days rain.

Great Hill

To save diesel I opted to start where the route crosses the Bolton Road. The tiny streams were over full as I headed to Great Hill but it was dry and warm. I was soon over this hill and heading down to White Coppice and the flat running along the valley to the next road crossing. Somewhere here the first of the rain started- not too heavy but enough for me to dig out my cag and burry my phone. The climb to Jepson's Gate didn't seem too bad and in the end I stuck to the 'original' race route. We had agreed this and various other sections could be modified. A last minute decision also saw me stick to the trod that would eventually lead me to Lower Hempshaw ruins; it was less overgrown and tussocky than I remembered. The drop through the woods was a bit muddy but the big track up towards the pigeon tower and Rivington Pike was fairly dry. Then the rain turned heavy and the Pike was not the place to hang around. I was soon at Pike Cottage where the cafe was the quietest I have seen it, probably because most people had fled the rain. The rain was now off/on. I resigned myself to keeping the cag on and just doing the best I could to vent in in the dry interludes. Winter Hill came and sent before dropping down to the Bolton Road. The section after this was very wet underfoot and it was a relief to turn south on the big track towards Longworth Rd and Dimple. 

The paths CAN be dry

I felt I was moving well and keeping up a good pace. From here I used our new 'variant' route and climbed directly onto the ridge and then along the top to the trig at Cheetham Close. It was totally water-logged and over my ankles for much of the way. From here it was mostly downhill to Turton Tower (number one today) and then Jumbles reservoir and the path to Turton Bottoms. This too was very wet and very muddy. The rain was still off/on but I was enjoying my day out. I used the alternative path to avoid Birches Farm and although it was totally waterlogged and splashy I was soon up at Bury Road and heading over the tops to Hawkshaw.

Somewhere around here I started looking at my watch and got worried. I had in my head that we had raced the route in just over 7 hours. In retrospect I should have checked more carefully but we had only been back home from France for a few days and I never found the time. I now calculated that I was moving far too slowly, yet it didn't feel like that? I crossed the army ranges and camp and speed and headed up to Peel Tower as fast as I could. 

Peel Tower and Howlers

I couldn't go any faster and if anything I was tired and getting slower. Oh well, keep plodding. There were very few people up on the moor as I headed for Pilgrims Cross and even fewer as I set off on the looping and mostly contouring Rossendale Way. 

Nice part of the Rosendale Way

This was incredibly wet underfoot but once you're wet there is not much point worrying. I was busy enough beating myself up about how slow I was compared to the race two years ago. On the plus side without a race there were no books to visit so we had agreed it was OK to miss out the short out and back to the first book and also to miss out the loop to the second and instead to head for the chimney and then run along the ridge- much nicer. It saves about 2.5km.  The path along the top was wet and the flagstone path after Musbury Heights was under water. Worse was to come when I reached Hog Lowe Pike and the boggy moor across to Edgerton Moss. By now I was despairing about what my final time would be. Hoddlestone came and went before my least favourite section of the route. It might be that I know this section least well or it may be that it is pretty awful on very underused paths. It was wet, muddy and slow. Then on my way to the A666 I reached a flooded gateway. I did try to climb along the fences but it didn't work. I had to wade through the huge puddle that reached the top of my thighs. I could at least now see the end and calculated that I might be able to make 9 hours. Pathetic I thought but the best I could manage. The first section of the Witton Weavers way was under water and things were not much better when I reached the start of Darwen Moor. 

Darwen Tower

The Tower was shrouded in scaffold and plastic sheeting and I was grateful to reach the drier tracks heading for Slipper Lowe. I was safely back at the car just inside 9 hours after a desperate final push. I almost cried- surely I wasn't so rubbish. Perhaps it was the two big European races with walking up big mountains? I drove home pleased to have completed the route but a bit despondent. I also seemed to have damaged the front of my groin/hip abductor area. Back home I checked the race results. What an idiot. 7 hours would have been the men's record. 

Fiona and I had taken just over 9 hours in the race. It's not quite the same route and very slightly shorter but roughly the same time which without any food CPs or others to motivate me seemed pretty good. Perhaps I am not rubbish after all. I felt better (especially knowing it was a few more Runfurther points) - except that is for whatever was wrong with my hip abductor area. (photos from the race 2 years ago and a reccee run in the heat with Howlers).

Fast forward less than a week and it's Round Rotherham- a fast flat (ish) 50 miler with a fair amount of tarmac or hard surfaces but also some arable fields and woods.  I love the set up and the people but hate this route- it always punishes me. 

RR in happier times a few years ago

We arrived via a trip to see a son and then 5 hours on the climbing wall in Sheffield- it was a new wall for us and we got a bit carried away. Possibly not ideal race prep but I felt OK. As is often the case at RR we had a committee meeting in a pub on Friday night. God company but possibly a contender for the worst meals I have seen arrive at our table. We had already put up flags and banners so 9pm saw me ready to race and in bed on Manvers Lakeshore. I slept quite well until early vehicles scrunching on the gravel made sleep impossible.  After breakfast I left Bob in bed with coffee and went up to the boat house to register. I met up with many friends but as we had a wide spread of start times to be Covid safe it was hard to know who I had missed. Before 7am I was ready with my dibber allocated and as it was light there seemed little point delaying. As I started Julian shouted he was coming with me........ it was nice to have company and we gave each other reassurance that we were on route. Sadly though perhaps this meant I set off too fast? I did stop to find my cag and bury my phone but Julian slowed for me. There had been no mention of rain in the forecast and it never came to much in the end.

After Wentworth we were passing a number of earlier starters and I persuaded Julian to leave me. My right hip abductor was already causing me problems and every little dip was torture.  At this point I really though I might not even make it past the first CP at Thorpe Hesley. Running on a flat surface and one without any dramatic drops seemed OK, just. I didn't stop at the CP as I had caught up with Julian and others and was not too far behind schedule yet. The next section is a real mixture with some pleasant field paths and tracks to Hilltop but then some slightly steeper paths down to a main road. Those hurt today but it got worse. The steps at the rail crossing and main road caused me serious issues and much time. Shortly after this Sarah came past. I was struggling to run along the easy canal tow path at the time and she was surprised to see me. I think only the horrors of Tinsley made me keep going and even try to speed up. Not my favourite part of the course. I was not far behind Sarah until the next steps at Sheffield Parkway. Negotiating those and then the normally fine but today for me uneven ground before Catcliffe lost me more precious time.  I arrived at Treeton CP looking a bit of a wreck. I grabbed a piece of banana and set off before I could change my mind. The huge start window was for me having one very positive effect- I could keep finding another group of walkers to pick off. This kept me going all the way to Rother Valley Park where Charles caught me up and overtook me. Roughly 20 miles done and although I was struggling badly I started to think of making it to half way. The scenery improved from here,  still just farm land and villages but much nicer than Tinsley. 

After crossing the M1 the first ploughed arable field appeared and I was pleased to see a reasonable beaten path up it to Woodhall. Sadly it didn't last and some of the next fields were just uneven enough to tweak my hip and cause yelps of pain. I had to walk. I didn't stop at Harthill CP as there only seemed to be chocolate biscuit bars. My mind set was now in survival mode. I needed a 'long' for Runfurther and told myself it would be easier to finish this one than worry whether I would mend in a fortnight for the Yorkshire Trod. The paths were mostly OK until I got to the next ploughed fields.

 It was pathetic but even the tiny ditches between fields and roads were causing me problems and the fields by the wind turbine were dreadful ( not wet or muddy just too uneven for me). The 'big' stile near Top Hall Farm almost defeated me but I did eventually climb over and it was a joy to reach the Chesterfield canal and then the easy tracks across the golf course. Never thought I would be so pleased to see tarmac and flat tracks. I had just passed Nick and he was soon at the CP too. I decided to stop and eat properly in the hope some fuel would help and set off just after him. The next section to Langold lake had easier ground and I jogged on telling myself that if I was going to try to finish I should just get on with it and 'run' whenever I could. 

I caught Nick and passed him and then hooked in behind a couple who like me were doing a mix of run. jog, walk. It is two years since the last race and I was not clear in my mind what came next so it was a pleasant surprise to arrive at Firbeck. Again just wrapped chocolate bars so I refilled my water and set off. The tracks and paths from there to Roche Abbey were fairly even and I made slightly better time and even overtook some more people. 

I knew from the Abbey it was only about 3 miles to Maltby and the next CP. The volunteers there were wonderfully encouraging and assured me there was under 12 miles to go. Pavements and easy tracks took me to Micklebring and the M18 where I caught up with a local runner. He stopped me from an error when the path was lost in sunflowers and we used each other to push on the best we could. The ploughed  and arable fields had better paths on flattened earth but the path in the woods before Hooton Roberts was very muddy and uneven, I don't think it ever dries out.  I had now passed Charles who was suffering badly with a damaged glute and saying he hoped he could make it to the next CP where he would retire. The 'new' CP in the barn was wonderful and certainly the best of the day. They had a huge assortment of proper food. This cheered me up no end and although I spent longer there than I should it was possibly worth it. There is no CP at Old Denaby now so I hoped I had enough water. The local guy said 3-4 miles but I knew it was more. 

The new bridges and ramps at the railway must have cost a fortune- I made it up the steps but used the ramp to descend as it would be quicker than walking backwards down all the steps. The canal and riverside paths seemed shorter than usual and I was soon on the edge of Swinton. Some bored teenagers lurking under a canal bridge offered me encouragement and the cycle path took me to the old race HQ at the sports college. Oh, to have finished there today! The river paths might have seemed shorter but the 3km or so along 'the roundabout' road seemed longer. I was so pleased to see the fire HQ at last and know I was almost there. Almost no fly tipping this year, thanks Rotherham and local councils! Thanks to Stef  for most of the photos out on the course.

So I finished at a jog. Over 50 miles and a PW by over 40 minutes (even worse compared to my better times).  Bob was waiting for me and Sarah was sat at the finish with a cup of tea. Sitting wasn't very comfortable but I needed a rest. Bob did a great waiter service of food and cups of tea before I decided I really needed to stand and move. We sat cheering in runners and chatting. Julian had finished in a good time too. Before long Kevin had finished and Nick. Charles finished- in pain and after a tough effort. It was the day for such things for some of us.

Bob was back from his bike ride in time  to greet the first runners and do their prize- giving. A clean sweep for 3 Runfurther men. Rory now has close to the magic 4000 points and cannot be beaten. Kevin and Rory also had good runs.

A local woman won our race in 8hrs31 and then Sarah C who had a storming run was 2nd in 9hrs10. She was rightly chuffed with her run and also to beat both her husband and me. 

Unbelievably I was 3rd in a PW of 9hrs46. Just shows  you should never give up. Oh, I also got an award for having done 10 RRs! Some runners have done 20 or even 30!!

I was keen to make sure I completed a 'long' Runfurther race and if I am not mended enough to do the Yorkshire Trod I will be gutted but at least I think I have enough points to ensure I cannot be caught.

Saturday 2 October 2021

The TOR (Tor des Geants)

 This is a long race, even for me so it could end up being a long post - you might want to get a brew ready.

I completed this race in 2019 and it was my plan to return and try to claim FV60. It is beautiful, brutal but somehow you dig deep and get it done! There is, for me, more power walking than real running, especially after day 1.

It's beautiful- we were so lucky it went ahead
I thought Covid might have put paid to this and even having paid up in April I was almost resigned to the fact that I had lost the money and we would not get there -  Italy had a 5 day quarantine plus all sorts of extra rules quite late into the summer.  We decided to enjoy France and just wait and see. The rules did change and it was all actions go. Our 'route' across France climbing and doing Via Feratta was determined by this race but that mostly worked out OK. There wasn't even 3 weeks recovery from the GRP but I felt that my legs were working well. Strictly speaking having been away from the UK for so long we should have just been able to enter Italy but the rules were unclear, written for those UK citizens going direct to Italy. We decided not to risk it and so paid for an antigen test at a French pharmacy - so easy , and filled in an Italian locator form - not so easy. In the end we drove from Briancon to Courmayeur without being stopped by any official for any purpose!

Going back to a race is always easier than the first time. We knew where we could park the van at the sports centre for a week and had some idea of the registration process. Armed with my Tous Anti-Covid French App I went to registration. It was time consuming queuing but eventually I was in. Then I failed at one hurdle- they wanted 50 Euros for the tracker (OK) but it had to be a single note! Luckily another runner was happy to exchange my two 20s and a 10 for a single 50! Rules!! There had been rumours that the drop bags were smaller this year. I think they might have been but in all honesty they were plenty big enough even with the extra sleeping bag we were asked to take to negate the need to share blankets. Saturday saw me registered and ready. Having only one drop bag that would follow me did make life easier but I still packed far too much. I guess if the weather had been worse I might have used more of it. The weather predictably for September was changeable and I worried about the rain. Matt Neale was by now off and running on the Tor des Glaciers and I had missed his evening start due to the rain.

Autumn is here

Sunday's weather was better and we were to start in waves at 10am and noon. All the Brits seemed to be in the 10am which suited me with more hours of daylight on the first day and less time to faff that morning. Once in the start pen I spotted Brian Melia and Tim Laney. I knew Nicky S would be there somewhere too. It was, just, cool enough to wear 3/4s which meant less faffing when it got to evening and the temperature dropped - in the end I wore the same 3/4s for the whole race! Despite a fair bit of experience I am still easily awed by other runners. I didn't think I could keep up with Tim or Brian even though they had said they planned a slow start and didn't even think about where Paul Nelson, Ali Bevan and Paul Tierney might be. I did know enough not to race after Brian as he took off through town and to ignore the women who were ahead of me. The start was fairly fast and furious as it is on streets and the crowds cheer you on. Plus I knew there was a single track bit in the woods where it is frustrating to be behind slower runners. 

First Col - a little one to prepare us
The Col d'Arp is the first of many high passes at 2571m and we were soon there. Then there is a long run down to Youlaz and La Thuile. It was getting warm but not crazy hot and better than the snow and rain of last time. Somewhere here I started running with Brian although I tried to hold back a little to save my quads. I was carrying Khatoolas after the panic of last time but my sack didn't feel too heavy really.
Some of the easiest hill running in the race

Starting in waves meant the CP was less crowded and so I managed to eat a little more in what was quite a short stop. 

An early Col

Next up was a climb to a refugio and then a bigger climb to Col Haut Pas at 2857m before a big drop and then another mammoth climb to Col Crosaties at 2829m. 

This takes longer than the km suggest and you just have to shrug and accept it for what it is; it's not like most people around you are going any faster! 

Tim on one of the bigger passes

The worst parts of the climb have some fixed ropes although in daylight they are quite easy. 

After a big up there is always a big down

From here it is mostly, but certainly not entirely, down to the first Life base and our drop bags at Valgrisenche.  I arrived about an hour ahead of schedule and with my right quad feeling very sore. I had a massage, food and then got it kino-taped- I was sceptical but it did seem to help. I also spent an hour less here than last time although again it was still dark when I left. More big climbs and descents over Col Fenetre lead to Rhemes Notre Dame and somewhere here I hooked up with both Brian and Tim again. I was now 2 hours up although I didn't actually check at the time. Whether it was this speed or not I am unclear but around here I started to really struggle with food and kept being violently sick. None of us could keep food down for more than a minute. I asked the medic for the magic injection I got last time but was instead given it in oral form - not much use when it was soon on the pavement! At this point I was seriously wondering if I could continue - I felt awful, knew food was essential and should have realised it was also coinciding with my natural 2-4am low point. As there seemed little point in staying we left together in the dark. I had worried about some awful woods with a dodgy path and broken safety rails but they were nothing like as bad as my memory and my quad was feeling a little better. It was nice to have some company even if not much chatter went on. The next col was even higher at 3002m and the three of us were doing it on empty. It was a relief to arrive at the CP at Eaux Rousses and even though it was now daylight it seemed sensible to eat and then try to grab a short sleep in the tents. This did work and we all started to feel better. I try never to make binding pacts to run with people after regretting this at the UT4M so the men left and I slept another 10 minutes. I left alone in glorious sunshine for the biggest Col of the race- Col Loson 3299m.

The highest one

I like this section with a good path up to the National Park Ranger's chalet, a beautiful path high towards the Col and then a slightly hairy path into the col itself. still - no snow this year. It was hot but less scorching than last time. I had a couple of short rests and forgot about chasing Brian and Tim. Initially the path down is a big dodgy but it soon improves and I trotted down overtaking people all the way to refugio Sella. 

Down to Sella

I never caught the guys but stopped and had food and beer (the race had sponsorship from Grand St Bernard brewery and strangely the beer worked better than fizzy coke and sorting my stomach). Downhill now to Cogne and the next life base. 

Should have spotted the photographer and run

It was good knowing this year that when we hit the top edge of the village there was still 4km to go! 

The endless drop to Cogne in the sunshine

At the CP I met up with the guys again. I had my feet taped as there were some hot spots but mainly concentrated on eating as there was a good range of food and I was feeling better. Not sleeping here and being a bit more efficient meant I left here almost 3 1/2 hrs up. An easy stretch along the valley and up to Lillaz and Goilles where we got real coffee was most welcome. You guessed it - another huge climb to 2827m and it was dark again. I think this Col is the one with the worst descent as the path has eroded away into a serious gully. There are some fixed ropes but it is still unpleasant. An Austrian guy got hit on the thigh by a bouncing rock here. 

Dawn always makes it better

The next bit is a bit of a blur. I am pretty sure were were still together as a little group and certainly remember leaving Chardonney together as I knew the way and how yuk the path down the gorge could be. I knew I would be cautious and slow over slimy rocks in the dark and also that the path seems to go on forever. It really does feel like being in an Escher painting going round and round so much that you lose track of which way the river is flowing and of compass direction - just follow the flags and pray. In day time it is a spectacular gorge with some high bridges giving great views of humungous boulders below. In the dark it just seemed to grind on. The guys pulled ahead and I let them go telling myself it wasn't far now to the valley floor. The street lights in the village helped me speed up and I could remember this bit clearly as it was daylight last time. Over the railway, no trains to wait for this year, and the river before arriving at the foot of Bard and it's forts. 

Towards Donnas

Up through the quaint village and then down the other side and on towards Donnas and the old roman road and arch. I heard my name? It was Matt Neale. Lovely to see him and hear about the Tor de Glaciers. We chatted so much we missed a turning but luckily put it right and arrived at the next Life Base safely. It was a whole gang meet up with Paul Nelson who was about to leave, Tim, Brian, Matt, Tim and me. Tim found a bed but the rest were full so I concentrated on eating and then tried to sleep on the platform in the hall. Rock hard and noisy - still a lie down is a rest I guess. I was keen to leave at day break but did wait a little for the others.

Wild and empty

The route then takes a rather circuitous route up and down through the town, past hanging trellis vinyards and up the valley.  We were in luck as the CP at Perloz had sugared donut sticks again. Yum. So nice to feel happy to eat again. In my mind the next section was quite short and we would soon be at Regugio Sassa where I slept to avoid the rain storm last time. My memory was wrong - it took a while and had almost 2000m of climb.  It was warm now and I wanted an ice lolly - the kind lady found some and made Tim his favourite cappuccino for free. A bit of time lost but we needed a rest. Onwards and upwards now to Refugio Coda at 2224m. My memories were of dark, a tiny overcrowded basement and being exhausted. This time was better even though we were in a tent. They even had ham omlette and I was now nearly 4 hours up. It's only 8km to the next CP at Refugio Barma but takes almost three hours. Again we had a meet up and were able to tease Matt about the preferential service the Glacier runners get. I didn't need the crockery or metal cutlery but would have given my right arm for the meat and polenta instead of the bouillon or pasta and thin tomato sauce we were offered. Ah well - at least I didn't feel sick this year. More cappuccinos were drunk and a bit more time lost. On on and towards the next Col and Lago Chiaro. It was nice to arrive at the CP with the real fire and BBQ in daylight and able to eat. Last year I threw up and spent two hours sleeping in a tiny sweaty portacabin. Another Col was calling and  then a muddy descent that last time seemed dreadful in the dark. It was better this time but seemed to take forever to reach the lights of Niel and the refugio. It was dark but very welcoming. My sweaty shirt had rubbed my back so I got it taped and then enjoyed a huge portion of polenta and ragu with beer. I felt sleepy and opted for two hours in a tent. It was better than I hoped with real camp beds and two very cosy blankets. Tim joined me. Brian had gone ahead before Niel to meet an Italian friend and he was sat outside by the campfire chatting. Time with this friend meant we were not a threesome for a little while. There was another Col after Niel but I barely remember it except for happily wandering up some lovely rock slabs in the dark and suddenly realising there were no flags. A shout to Tim and a bit of scrambling put me back on track. On the outskirts of Gressoney the rain started and I jogged on ahead in an attempt to stay dry. Both guys were now had hacking coughs and it wasn't long before Tim 's progressed to a chest infection whereas Brian seemed quite well despite his cough. It was 4am and sleep seemed necessary again although I insisted I was leaving once it was light. I ate well, tried to sleep but was disturbed by snoring men and in the dark totally messed up setting my alarm. In the end I was back up and in the main hall after about an hours sleep. I ate more and added more tape to my feet but I did lose time waiting for the others. Should I have just gone? Who knows? I was still 4 hours up but now wanting to move a bit faster since I was eating well.  I sort of felt we had run well together upto now although in hindsight I had told them to go on ahead in the woods before Bard. In the end we set off together and power walked along the easy valley floor. I wanted to jog and perhaps should have just gone. Tim wasn't feeling great, with his cough and chest infection starting to slow him down, and did ask me what my aim was at some point.  Brian reminded him that it was a race! and I said my aims were mostly time based - like getting close to or beating my previous time; ideally being FV60 too but that was not entirely in my control.  Although it was less than 90 mins to Alpenzu they wanted cappuccino again - more time lost. Either Col Pinter 2776m is easier or I was feeling better. Then a big drop to Chapoluc and out of the town to a sports and outdoor area.  It was lunch time and the poor guy offered me more bouillon or plain pasta. I nearly snapped. Brian left and I caught him as he almost went onto the golf course. Tim stayed but caught us up as we climbed along the road by the very full and fast flowing river. At St Jacques below Monta Rosa we turn uphill more steeply and it was here that the first afternoon thunderstorm hit. 

We didn't have much rain in the race

Cags on but it was so heavy we had to shelter briefly at a barn. Pushing on and up to refugio Tourmain there was another cloud burst so we sat and dried off with a very welcome minestrone- ah, variety and taste. Two more high cols and we were heading down to the next Life Base at Valtourmenche.  We must have split here because we all arrived separately as evening fell. 

There was some drizzle but we were more concerned with food and also some sleep. It was getting dark and damp so a snooze seemed a good option. I wanted to sleep less than the others so just said when I was hoping to leave by. I did eat and sleep well but also waited a little longer than I had hoped as Tim was almost ready. He still wasn't really feeling fully himself. The route winds its way through the town and then up and under some amazing rock cliffs; even in the dark they were impressive. Then under a huge dam and you arrive at the next refugio. A quick snack and we were off over another Col and up to the next CP at Vareton.  A bit more food and then yep - onwards and upwards. It was muddy in places and annoying not to run so much in the dark. 

Another just wow moment

I pulled ahead but waited as Brain and Tim were never far behind. From Fenetre Tzan I knew it was down and to a nice refugio where hopefully it would also start to get light. The descent needed a little care in places and would have been faster in the daylight.  Once in the valley we should have run more but did have a few issues with missing flags and so had to take care. At Refugio Magia we all had a cat nap and more food. I was still almost 4 hours up. It was then up very steeply through woods and then still up to Cuney and the refugio by the chapel.

Over a col and then on to the Bivacco CP where Matt and I lay in the sun/shade last time. This time it was decidedly chilly so we actually sat in the glass box they had helicoptered in. Then it was off to the next Col before a big drop to Oyace. 

Oyace is down there somewhere

I ran ahead here and despite some stops to eat raspberries and stopping at the bar to buy a Calypo I arrived first. 

Wasting time in Oyace

The others had lost a vital flag and stopped to carefully check their route. Brian arrived as I was eating some very nice pasta and we hatched a plan to pre-order for Tim in the hope we might then leave together. 

Tim tucking in and catching up

In the end I left as I felt I had waited long enough and hoped they would catch me up as there were now two slightly lower passes before the Life base at Ollomont. The descent seemed less technical than I remembered although Sarah an American girl fell and damaged her knee badly. At the second CP I was offered special cake as I joked with the men about the drizzle making me feel like I was back in the UK. It spurred me on down and then on the gradual climb through the village to the CP. My memories of Ollomont were of chaos, being freezing etc. How different it was. I ate well (meat, polenta, another even better minestrone and beer), I slept in my sleeping bag and arranged to leave with Brian once we had eaten again. Tim arrived and got a bed next to Tim S so we didn't feel too bad leaving him. There were forecasts of severe cold and gales but eventually I found a guy who said not to worry those were at 3000m.  Oh, and a nice guy gave me two slices of his pizza! The climb up through the woods is tough and by the time we arrived at the Refugio Champilon it was dark. We got past the snarling dog at the farm OK though and were greeted with wonderful lentil soup - taste and substance! The chef refused to comply with the RO and serve bouillon. The worst of the climb was now done and we were out of the trees into a splendid starry night as we climbed to  the Col at 2707m. Brian stopped here to admire the views and I ran on knowing he would likely catch me before the forest track about 4km later. The next bit confused me slightly as the tiny CP with the beef bourguignon was replaced by a large muddy farm yard. I did enjoy the roast meat and spuds though Brian seemed bothered by the lack of hygiene at the farm.  I knew the next bit was a wide track that mostly contours for almost 10km. I was keen to jog but we kept taking it in turns to stop to pee or sort torches. We did jog some of it. On the last big descent my shoe had split and I was now suffering all sorts of debris getting in. By Saint Rhemy Bosses we were both glad to take a break at just gone midnight. 

Parcel tape to keep the stones out

I got my shoe taped up, we ate and both managed a short sleep - Brian on the floor and me balanced on a very narrow bench. I was also surprised to see the other FV60 sat suffering. My climb to Frassati last time was from dawn and I loved it. This time in the dark I hit a real low - and this is perhaps the one place I was really really glad to have waited and to have Brian for company. We overtook FV60 lady twice and did pull away but on the hillside I just wanted to lie down and stop. I was falling asleep on my feet. We eventually made it to Frassati and did the maths. I could still break my time.. perhaps. Brian let me sleep but stayed awake to make sure I only had 15-20 minutes or so. He kicked me out with good wishes before going to sleep himself as he was keen to do Passage Malatra in daylight. 

The long diagonal that I never felt I was on in the dark

Without this I am sure I would have slept longer. It was dark and the chilliest yet as I plodded up to Passage Malatra  with cag, hat and gloves (the iconic window where they take photos).

Passage Malatra

 In the dark I got a bit disorientated, never seemed to be on the diagonally rising path and suddenly was on the top section of narrow path with the fixed ropes. 

The most gear I had on all race

There was nobody else about so no worry of rocks. At the top I was met by a lone and frozen camera man. The safety guys had gone to sleep in their 'box'. I chatted for a moment and then tried to get my legs into gear for the descent. It was still very dark and I did not feel confident running the first section.

To tired and dark to run the descent this year

As I rounded the corner 40 mins later the sun was just rising and lighting up the Grand Jorasses and Monte Bianco. Wow! I stopped to remove hat etc but mainly to dig out my phone and take pictures. It was stunning and I could even make out tiny figures on the glacier. 

My phone did not do it justice

 I sort of gave up hope of beating my time but did eventually jog on, much to the relief of a German guy who was almost in tears of frustration. the cows had eaten or trampled all the flags and he had no idea where to go. Luckily I did and although I had to slow as a herd and calves came up the hill we were soon at the bridge near Arminaz and staring the balcony path. 

Claudio

Only about 10km to go. Could I do it? Maybe, so time to run a bit more. I couldn't run the ups but ran most of the way to Bertone. The guys there said under 5km to the finish and that was it. I was off! I went faster than I thought sensible on the stony path with so many trip hazards. It was early and there were not too many tourists on this UTMB path yet. As I reached the village of Villair I knew I could beat my time. 

I am sure it was a slow jog but I felt I was flying down and into Courmayeur. Claudio my genepi friend wanted me to do a pit stop and drink with him but I only had eyes for the finish. 

The relatively empty streets before 9am helped and there it was, the finish ramp. Knackered, elated and worried about where Bob was. 

Relief at last

I knew he wouldn't want to miss my finish so was worried about what had happened. 

Apparently the tracker was still showing me up at Bertone. I got my medal, finishers shirt, signed the poster and was given a beer! 

Bob arrived soon after and I got another beer! (it's important to rehydrate!)

More beer and then a walk through town for ice cream and to cheer on other finishers.  Brian appeared soon afterwards and then later so did the other FV60. We walked back to the finish area to congratulate Brian. 

I managed to be 1st FV60 by over an hour and only 2/6 of us finished.

349km with roughly 28000m of climb. 19 hrs 51 which beat last time by over half an hour. 

114th overall, 12th F, 40% DNF rate overall. 

 Brits didn't do badly. Nicky was 3rd F with a great run. Paul Nelson, Tim L, Tim S, Brian and I all finished and Matt finished the big one - the Tor des Glaciers. The TOR is a qualifier for this but it is even longer, higher and unmarked - I don't think  it is for me. Saturday was a wonderful rest day with a coffee and cake in town with our group and then a meal out in the evening. Lots of beer and pizza, plus of course more ice cream. I also tended to my feet that were in a pretty good state compared to some people, got a lovely wind down massage and emptied my drop bag. I had carried far too much - the clothing might have got used in wetter weather but I took too much food - or ate too little of it. I did use a fair bit of Mountain Fuel raw energy in my bottles and a couple of gels when real food was refusing to go down, plus a ginger bar that eased my stomach a little. 

Glad the snow waited until I had finished this time

Sunday was prize giving and the rain stopped, although the tops had a good dusting of snow, with an almost perfect weather window for outdoors celebrations. 

The trophies were cool Aosta valley bulls - first 5 F/M in each race and then 1st V in each category. Only the Italians can make extended drum rolls and so much noise from people's names! 

Another rather hurried pizza together and the gathering broke up with people making a dash through the tunnel to Chamonix for flights and trains. 

We sorted the van and drove over the Petit St Bernard and back to France. The weather was not good enough for a Col top walk so it was on towards Via Ferattas near Chambery. The first one was a little damp and interesting but the two from near St Jean d'Arves were as amazing as usual. Sadly the next near Crolles was shut due to a serious rock fall and this seems to be a repeated theme - St Christophe, Crolles, Val d'Isere and two in the Maurienne valley.