Tuesday, 4 June 2024

Birthday run

 It seems a long time since I posted and I certainly have not been doing nothing! Lots of indoor climbing, quite a few bike rides and some big Wainwright walks and runs.

It has become a thing to do a big run on my birthday as proof to myself that I am not really getting old. Denial yes. I had a variety of options in mind but knew I had to plan with only Bob as support this year plus I did not want to do anything too crazy as I had some races in June. A local guy had written a book on a route he devised called the North West Way which goes from Preston to Carlisle via some interesting places. At 192 miles I was tempted to do it all but then the weather in the preceding fortnight was awful and I decided to be sensible and do half of it. I quite liked the idea of running home and knew that this would work well for Bob supporting me and so the plan was Bowes to Preston. All down hill and running home. Of course it was also into the wind and no it really was not all down hill. There would be plenty of variety underfoot, in the scenery and also in terms of bits I knew or did not know.

First light in Bowes

We drove north past all the bow topped caravans making their way to Appleby Horse Fair and were in Bowes by early evening. Two of my planned park ups were non starters but the third was fine although traffic noise from the nearby A66 was not ideal. I was already packed and organised and so with itchy feet I went out to explore. It is a pretty little village with some gentrified houses, a pretty church and the ruins of a castle. I decided not to start by the castle as the field paths had long grass that would be very wet in the morning. Wet feet after 500m when the next 8 miles were on big dry tracks seemed daft.

Ready for a long day

I was up as my alarm went at 4.30am and after a quick breakfast a photo left the van in cool but dry weather. I was cautious on the first mile or so but once on the big tracks over the moors I relaxed and made good progress. 

Setting off for home
The route opted for the drivable shooters track rather than the Pennine Way path so my feet stayed dry all the way to Tan Hill Inn.  All was quiet as I passed the pub and those in campervans were still asleep. 
Not the best selfie

Here I turned south on the Pennine Way which although following a good track was wet and muddy after all the recent rain. Beautiful wild scenery all the way.

Wild moors above Keld

Before long I could see Keld and recognised the scenery from my Northern Traverse runs. With  no need to divert to toilets or shop in Keld I was soon near Crackpot Hall (what a great name) and entering new territory. 

Keld village

The route ignores the PW and the Pennine Journey paths and stays to the east of the river. Again it was a good track  and then some lovely old flagstones all the way to Muker.

Old mine workings

Quickly admiring the old buildings in the hamlet I took field paths where the flood water had just about receded and headed west to Thwaite. It was now properly morning and I got some strange looks as I passed the camp site. 

Beautiful meadows

Bob had found a good parking place above Thwaite and it was good to see him and to eat and drink. 

Off to the moors again

Determined not to get comfortable I was soon on my way up the track leading towards Great Shunner Fell (2384m) and Bob shot off over Buttertubs to Hardraw.  Soon the track became grassy and very wet and muddy. The sections of flagstones were under about 8-10 inches of water but they were better than the muddy boggy sections.  As I neared the summit the drizzle started. Fortunately it was really just wetting out of low cloud and soon stopped. 

Grey but not yet too wet

I had been looking forward to the 5 miles of track which would drop me into Wensleydale but for the first mile or so had to be cautious given the underfoot conditions. The views were wonderful, the bird life amazing (grouse and curlews mainly) and I met my first walkers of the day. It was a joy to be running downhill as it is a track I have only ever gone up before.  

Arriving in Hardraw

Bob was parked exactly where I met the tarmac. More food and a cup of tea. Over 22 miles done and I was up an schedule.

Refuelling

Knowing the way made the next miles easy and allowed me to relax and take in the scenery. I love the dales with their meadows full of flowers, lambs and birds. It was warm but not too hot now. Road signs saying floods/closed caused some concern but they were a day or so old. I did stay on the PW rather than the smaller path close to the river but managed to get from Hardraw to Hawes with no issues. Thwarted by flood water would have been very irritating and the road had been shut 48hrs earlier. The small town was getting very busy with walkers, tourists and shoppers as I took the old stone path behind the creamery and into Gayle. Bob meanwhile went to the cheese shop and bought me lots of extra birthday presents!

I love the Dales

Once out of town and on Gaudy Lane I was alone again heading up and up on the PW. My feet were soaked but did not seem to be suffering at all. I was moving towards Fellsman and Dales High Way paths that I knew. Running along the big track below Dodd Fell seemed easier than when racing the Fellsman and I had time to admire the view north to Snaizeholme and Great Knoutberry. 

Off Cam High Road but still good tracks

At Kidstone Gate I joined Cam High Road, an old Roman route, and had excellent views of the Y3Ps and Ribblehead Viaduct. 

Ribbleshead viaduct and 3Ps scenery

At Cam End it was a sharp left turn to head south but still on the PW. Good tracks were certainly helping me make good progress here. Ling Gill looked interesting and a good spot to swim plus there is lots of history- a 16th century bridge  and old mine workings. 

Looking a bit grey but still dry

From Old Ing there are multiple paths but I stuck to that chosen for the NWW rather than the slightly lower Ribble Way. Along this section I passed a few walkers, a DoE group and then a friend out running with her son: always a nice surprise. 

So much water everywhere!

At Sell Gill Holes I remembered a winter walk with Bob where we sheltered from the wind to picnic. Before long I was in Horton in Ribblesdale. It was surprisingly quiet although the campsite looked full.

A quiet spot in Horton

I had decided in advance that the best spot for Bob was by the old primary school. I knew there would be space and that it would be quiet if he needed a snooze. Being in Brackenbottom meant Pen Y Gent would be a short out and back but in the end the weather changed my plans here anyway. As I ate and drank in the van we could see the weather closing in. 

Cag on - it's going to rain

Sure enough, by the time I had climbed 1km east the cloud was low and the air was damp. There seemed little point gaining the peak with no view. I had been many times before and didn't want to risk a slip on the greasy rocks either. Instead I headed south to Churn Milk Hole and eventually the lane. It was now wet and I found PW walkers hiding behind a wall sorting their gear. Climbing onto Fountains Fell seemed to take a while; I guess I was getting tired now after 40+miles and the boggy ground was slowing me down. No photos either. Dropping towards Tennant Gill Farm the rain eased but the paths stayed horribly wet and boggy all the way to the road. I consoled myself with the maths that by the south side of Malham Tarn I would be pretty much half way. It was a relief to reach the tarmac driveway to the hall and also to have the distraction of all the wooden carved birds and animals as I climbed. 

Waves on the tarn

Reaching the tarn more walkers appeared making the most of the now dry weather. I ate more here. I cannot remember what but know there was soup, fresh mango, quiche and cups of tea. 

Arriving at Malham Tarn car park

Leaving the main car park it was soon obvious the whole area had been flooded and much of the flat grass was still under water with raging streams where there is often just a trickle. A rather circuitous route got me through. I had been anxious about the next section knowing how much I dread wet muddy limestone and the gnarly path below Ing scar did not disappoint. 

Heading to Malham Cove

It was a relief to reach the limestone pavement above the Cove. Usually I would bounce across this but today with tired legs I took more care.

Limestone pavement

It was busy with many families having walked up from the campsite and car parks on such a pleasant afternoon/evening. No time for me to explore the village today.

The iconic view

In my head it would be down hill from here to Hellifield; of course it wasn't. A couple of miles and I was in Kirkby Malham and alone again. Here the paths deteriorated with first a slippery steep muddy affair in the woods and then rather indeterminate paths through meadows with thigh high grass all the way to Otterburn. At least from there to Hellifield was easy and was downhill! I was very pleased to see Bob and the van and to have yet more refreshments. A day later would have been a disaster as the Long Preston road was blocked for hours- perhaps by the travelling vans. I should probably have stopped and changed my socks here, if only to check on my feet, but there seemed little point as I knew they would soon be soaked again.

You would think from here to Preston across relatively lowland and flattish field paths would be easy. It proved to be the toughest part of the day. The paths are clearly walked much less and this meant the nav was more tricky plus with the recent rain and warmth the vegetation had shot up and nobody had beaten it down. There were some quiet lanes which upped the pace a bit but there were also some very very muddy bits with highly exuberant young cows.  I was pleased to have my poles even though I didn't actually need to use them. The Paythorne area will not be my favourite and I was pleased to reach the old bridge and be making my way towards Gisburn. The paths added to avoid main road running have improved since we ran the Ribble Way as a team and turning off to Gisburn Park was even better. Bob had again found the perfect stop. It was only about 8.30pm and I was keen to make the most of the light and so did not stop long. Baby bel cheese and Lidl Romeo / Bounty vars would have to do. I was carrying my head torch but would not need it yet. Over 100km done and feeling OK.

Mill Lane near Gisburn

Leaving the van I turned up the driveway of Coppice Farm to meet a huge herd of deer which was a nice treat. 

There must have been 50 in total

A few km later was a herd of very frisky cows- much less of a treat. The ground was wet and muddy but I eventually emerged at Sawley for a bit of road running. It was quiet and I had no issue with traffic. I deviated from the official route slightly here as I did not want to run through a farm yard in the dark and cause upset or spook any farm dogs. Near Grindleton I picked up the Ribble Way and relished easy nav for a while. The quarry and cement works at Chatburn were noisy even at night but otherwise all was deserted. The river side path was easy to follow but very wet and muddy. There were even some sections where the river had burst it's banks. Wider paths near the sculpture park were easier and before long I was at Low Moor and then Eddisford Bridge. Bob was there in the van as promised but for the first time today I was feeling slightly sick and not wanting to eat. Still, there was only a marathon to go and I had eaten well all day.

Leaving Clitheroe

It was easy running even in the dark to Great Mitton and then roads to the Hodder bridges- the 'new' one and the ancient packhorse Cromwell's bridge. Cromwell's army crossed here on their way to the Battle of Preston in 1648. Shortly after this my route left the Ribble Way and climbed to the back of Stonyhurst College so there was more easy track running pretty much all the way to Hurst Green. Having visited and run here often I did not mind not seeing the impressive buildings as it was dark. A track dropped me towards the river and Dinckley bridge and then it all went a bit wrong. I lost the path and did some battle with mud and undergrowth- I was tired and it was dark. Having my poles helped keep me upright in several sections of mud but I still managed one skid and a twisted knee. I relocated on the bigger bridleway and was soon at the bridge in Little Town.  Bob was there but I didn't really want much except to get the job done now.

Near Malham Cove- out of order but too good not to include

The NWW crosses some field paths to Ribchester but the road has pavement and I could not face more bog and mud. Ribchester was deserted as you might expect at 2.30am and I was soon on my way to Hothersall and thinking of all the times I had gone to meet kids doing DoE on paths around here. I kept disturbing wildlife now. I think a fox watched me and then ran off. There were some deer and an owl plus lots of sheep's eyes glowing in the dark. Heading west on paths that cross Alston Lane and Elston Lane was OK but then I saw 'different' eyes and suddenly there was barking. Two dogs had either escaped or been let out alone. I was not impressed. It was not yet light and I had no idea how friendly they might be. Stressed I charged off towards Tun Brook woods and it all went a bit wrong again. I found the gate into the woods and crossed a bridge. OS maps and my instructions were cross it and go straight up the other side. There are two bridges!  After some swearing and battle with mud and undergrowth I retraced my steps to the first bridge and saw that I needed to drop down to the main stream and another bridge. It's probably easy in daylight and with a fully functioning brain but I will go back one day soon and check. Once past the solar farm I was soon on familiar ground and on the easy path above Red Scar wood. I was glad running home meant from here it I knew the way so well. Dropping to Brockholes and the nature reserve there was even more bird life and I met a photographer out at dawn. The Guild Wheel is a good surface Which on a normal run I would not be a fan of) and as I crossed under the A59 to follow the Ribble downstream I knew there was less than 9 miles to go. It was now raining but I didn't really care. I stopped at our van briefly at the Shaws Arms but again wanted little to eat. 

The heaviest of the rain I had in all the journey

It is always a joy to run through Avenham and Miller Parks. I looked up right to Avenham Tower where we once lived, was surprised to see a couple of tents by the river in the park and then started meeting early morning runners. I hope they didn't think I usually run so badly- they of course had no idea where I had started. The official route goes up through the very fine Winckley Square to then finish at the train station. I stayed on the Guild Wheel by the river and had opted to finish at the dock swing bridge where I knew Bob could park easily even in rush hour.  

I can stop at last

I thought about running home- another mile or so on the Guild Wheel but the cycle path along Portway is noisy and smelly so finishing at the dock seemed nicer. 

Job done

 I finished- a bit wet and bedraggled but in one piece and happy at 6.48am. So just under 26hrs (25.53) for the 99 miles/159km and 3294m of climb. 


It was a very short drive home for a shower, fried eggs on bread as always and some sleep for both of us. Bob had managed a few micro naps but had been awake as long as me.

Doing this in the 'proper' direction would have been better for the prevailing wind but it was not really very windy and it was good to be running home and on very easy paths at the end.  I ate well until Clitheroe and was happy with that. I did not change any clothes or footwear and should perhaps have changed socks and checked my feet. Two days later my feet are fine. It would have been better without the previous fortnight of rain but the weather on the day was pretty good. After a sleep we repacked the van and drove to the Lakes for 3 days of big Wainwright walks. Bob completed (and exceeded) his 80 Wainwrights for 80 years. I must admit it was good to have dry feet for almost the entirety of those 3 days and no mud or navigation issues. We were also blessed with beautiful weather. So now I just have the Carlisle to Bowes section to do when I have some spare time. I might have to start at Bowness on Solway to make it about 100 miles though. Thanks to Steve Garrill for the inspiration and the kind gift of his NWW book as an early birthday present.

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