This is a long race, even for me so it could end up being a long post - you might want to get a brew ready.
I completed this race in 2019 and it was my plan to return and try to claim FV60. It is beautiful, brutal but somehow you dig deep and get it done! There is, for me, more power walking than real running, especially after day 1.
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| It's beautiful- we were so lucky it went ahead |
Going back to a race is always easier than the first time. We knew where we could park the van at the sports centre for a week and had some idea of the registration process. Armed with my Tous Anti-Covid French App I went to registration. It was time consuming queuing but eventually I was in. Then I failed at one hurdle- they wanted 50 Euros for the tracker (OK) but it had to be a single note! Luckily another runner was happy to exchange my two 20s and a 10 for a single 50! Rules!! There had been rumours that the drop bags were smaller this year. I think they might have been but in all honesty they were plenty big enough even with the extra sleeping bag we were asked to take to negate the need to share blankets. Saturday saw me registered and ready. Having only one drop bag that would follow me did make life easier but I still packed far too much. I guess if the weather had been worse I might have used more of it. The weather predictably for September was changeable and I worried about the rain. Matt Neale was by now off and running on the Tor des Glaciers and I had missed his evening start due to the rain.
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| Autumn is here |
Sunday's weather was better and we were to start in waves at 10am and noon. All the Brits seemed to be in the 10am which suited me with more hours of daylight on the first day and less time to faff that morning. Once in the start pen I spotted Brian Melia and Tim Laney. I knew Nicky S would be there somewhere too. It was, just, cool enough to wear 3/4s which meant less faffing when it got to evening and the temperature dropped - in the end I wore the same 3/4s for the whole race! Despite a fair bit of experience I am still easily awed by other runners. I didn't think I could keep up with Tim or Brian even though they had said they planned a slow start and didn't even think about where Paul Nelson, Ali Bevan and Paul Tierney might be. I did know enough not to race after Brian as he took off through town and to ignore the women who were ahead of me. The start was fairly fast and furious as it is on streets and the crowds cheer you on. Plus I knew there was a single track bit in the woods where it is frustrating to be behind slower runners.
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| First Col - a little one to prepare us |
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| Some of the easiest hill running in the race |
Starting in waves meant the CP was less crowded and so I managed to eat a little more in what was quite a short stop.
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| An early Col |
Next up was a climb to a refugio and then a bigger climb to Col Haut Pas at 2857m before a big drop and then another mammoth climb to Col Crosaties at 2829m.
This takes longer than the km suggest and you just have to shrug and accept it for what it is; it's not like most people around you are going any faster!
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| Tim on one of the bigger passes |
The worst parts of the climb have some fixed ropes although in daylight they are quite easy.
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| After a big up there is always a big down |
From here it is mostly, but certainly not entirely, down to the first Life base and our drop bags at Valgrisenche. I arrived about an hour ahead of schedule and with my right quad feeling very sore. I had a massage, food and then got it kino-taped- I was sceptical but it did seem to help. I also spent an hour less here than last time although again it was still dark when I left. More big climbs and descents over Col Fenetre lead to Rhemes Notre Dame and somewhere here I hooked up with both Brian and Tim again. I was now 2 hours up although I didn't actually check at the time. Whether it was this speed or not I am unclear but around here I started to really struggle with food and kept being violently sick. None of us could keep food down for more than a minute. I asked the medic for the magic injection I got last time but was instead given it in oral form - not much use when it was soon on the pavement! At this point I was seriously wondering if I could continue - I felt awful, knew food was essential and should have realised it was also coinciding with my natural 2-4am low point. As there seemed little point in staying we left together in the dark. I had worried about some awful woods with a dodgy path and broken safety rails but they were nothing like as bad as my memory and my quad was feeling a little better. It was nice to have some company even if not much chatter went on. The next col was even higher at 3002m and the three of us were doing it on empty. It was a relief to arrive at the CP at Eaux Rousses and even though it was now daylight it seemed sensible to eat and then try to grab a short sleep in the tents. This did work and we all started to feel better. I try never to make binding pacts to run with people after regretting this at the UT4M so the men left and I slept another 10 minutes. I left alone in glorious sunshine for the biggest Col of the race- Col Loson 3299m.
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| The highest one |
I like this section with a good path up to the National Park Ranger's chalet, a beautiful path high towards the Col and then a slightly hairy path into the col itself. still - no snow this year. It was hot but less scorching than last time. I had a couple of short rests and forgot about chasing Brian and Tim. Initially the path down is a big dodgy but it soon improves and I trotted down overtaking people all the way to refugio Sella.
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| Down to Sella |
I never caught the guys but stopped and had food and beer (the race had sponsorship from Grand St Bernard brewery and strangely the beer worked better than fizzy coke and sorting my stomach). Downhill now to Cogne and the next life base.
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| Should have spotted the photographer and run |
It was good knowing this year that when we hit the top edge of the village there was still 4km to go!
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| The endless drop to Cogne in the sunshine |
At the CP I met up with the guys again. I had my feet taped as there were some hot spots but mainly concentrated on eating as there was a good range of food and I was feeling better. Not sleeping here and being a bit more efficient meant I left here almost 3 1/2 hrs up. An easy stretch along the valley and up to Lillaz and Goilles where we got real coffee was most welcome. You guessed it - another huge climb to 2827m and it was dark again. I think this Col is the one with the worst descent as the path has eroded away into a serious gully. There are some fixed ropes but it is still unpleasant. An Austrian guy got hit on the thigh by a bouncing rock here.
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| Dawn always makes it better |
The next bit is a bit of a blur. I am pretty sure were were still together as a little group and certainly remember leaving Chardonney together as I knew the way and how yuk the path down the gorge could be. I knew I would be cautious and slow over slimy rocks in the dark and also that the path seems to go on forever. It really does feel like being in an Escher painting going round and round so much that you lose track of which way the river is flowing and of compass direction - just follow the flags and pray. In day time it is a spectacular gorge with some high bridges giving great views of humungous boulders below. In the dark it just seemed to grind on. The guys pulled ahead and I let them go telling myself it wasn't far now to the valley floor. The street lights in the village helped me speed up and I could remember this bit clearly as it was daylight last time. Over the railway, no trains to wait for this year, and the river before arriving at the foot of Bard and it's forts.
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| Towards Donnas |
Up through the quaint village and then down the other side and on towards Donnas and the old roman road and arch. I heard my name? It was Matt Neale. Lovely to see him and hear about the Tor de Glaciers. We chatted so much we missed a turning but luckily put it right and arrived at the next Life Base safely. It was a whole gang meet up with Paul Nelson who was about to leave, Tim, Brian, Matt, Tim and me. Tim found a bed but the rest were full so I concentrated on eating and then tried to sleep on the platform in the hall. Rock hard and noisy - still a lie down is a rest I guess. I was keen to leave at day break but did wait a little for the others.
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| Wild and empty |
The route then takes a rather circuitous route up and down through the town, past hanging trellis vinyards and up the valley. We were in luck as the CP at Perloz had sugared donut sticks again. Yum. So nice to feel happy to eat again. In my mind the next section was quite short and we would soon be at Regugio Sassa where I slept to avoid the rain storm last time. My memory was wrong - it took a while and had almost 2000m of climb. It was warm now and I wanted an ice lolly - the kind lady found some and made Tim his favourite cappuccino for free. A bit of time lost but we needed a rest. Onwards and upwards now to Refugio Coda at 2224m. My memories were of dark, a tiny overcrowded basement and being exhausted. This time was better even though we were in a tent. They even had ham omlette and I was now nearly 4 hours up. It's only 8km to the next CP at Refugio Barma but takes almost three hours. Again we had a meet up and were able to tease Matt about the preferential service the Glacier runners get. I didn't need the crockery or metal cutlery but would have given my right arm for the meat and polenta instead of the bouillon or pasta and thin tomato sauce we were offered. Ah well - at least I didn't feel sick this year. More cappuccinos were drunk and a bit more time lost. On on and towards the next Col and Lago Chiaro. It was nice to arrive at the CP with the real fire and BBQ in daylight and able to eat. Last year I threw up and spent two hours sleeping in a tiny sweaty portacabin. Another Col was calling and then a muddy descent that last time seemed dreadful in the dark. It was better this time but seemed to take forever to reach the lights of Niel and the refugio. It was dark but very welcoming. My sweaty shirt had rubbed my back so I got it taped and then enjoyed a huge portion of polenta and ragu with beer. I felt sleepy and opted for two hours in a tent. It was better than I hoped with real camp beds and two very cosy blankets. Tim joined me. Brian had gone ahead before Niel to meet an Italian friend and he was sat outside by the campfire chatting. Time with this friend meant we were not a threesome for a little while. There was another Col after Niel but I barely remember it except for happily wandering up some lovely rock slabs in the dark and suddenly realising there were no flags. A shout to Tim and a bit of scrambling put me back on track. On the outskirts of Gressoney the rain started and I jogged on ahead in an attempt to stay dry. Both guys were now had hacking coughs and it wasn't long before Tim 's progressed to a chest infection whereas Brian seemed quite well despite his cough. It was 4am and sleep seemed necessary again although I insisted I was leaving once it was light. I ate well, tried to sleep but was disturbed by snoring men and in the dark totally messed up setting my alarm. In the end I was back up and in the main hall after about an hours sleep. I ate more and added more tape to my feet but I did lose time waiting for the others. Should I have just gone? Who knows? I was still 4 hours up but now wanting to move a bit faster since I was eating well. I sort of felt we had run well together upto now although in hindsight I had told them to go on ahead in the woods before Bard. In the end we set off together and power walked along the easy valley floor. I wanted to jog and perhaps should have just gone. Tim wasn't feeling great, with his cough and chest infection starting to slow him down, and did ask me what my aim was at some point. Brian reminded him that it was a race! and I said my aims were mostly time based - like getting close to or beating my previous time; ideally being FV60 too but that was not entirely in my control. Although it was less than 90 mins to Alpenzu they wanted cappuccino again - more time lost. Either Col Pinter 2776m is easier or I was feeling better. Then a big drop to Chapoluc and out of the town to a sports and outdoor area. It was lunch time and the poor guy offered me more bouillon or plain pasta. I nearly snapped. Brian left and I caught him as he almost went onto the golf course. Tim stayed but caught us up as we climbed along the road by the very full and fast flowing river. At St Jacques below Monta Rosa we turn uphill more steeply and it was here that the first afternoon thunderstorm hit.
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| We didn't have much rain in the race |
Cags on but it was so heavy we had to shelter briefly at a barn. Pushing on and up to refugio Tourmain there was another cloud burst so we sat and dried off with a very welcome minestrone- ah, variety and taste. Two more high cols and we were heading down to the next Life Base at Valtourmenche. We must have split here because we all arrived separately as evening fell.
There was some drizzle but we were more concerned with food and also some sleep. It was getting dark and damp so a snooze seemed a good option. I wanted to sleep less than the others so just said when I was hoping to leave by. I did eat and sleep well but also waited a little longer than I had hoped as Tim was almost ready. He still wasn't really feeling fully himself. The route winds its way through the town and then up and under some amazing rock cliffs; even in the dark they were impressive. Then under a huge dam and you arrive at the next refugio. A quick snack and we were off over another Col and up to the next CP at Vareton. A bit more food and then yep - onwards and upwards. It was muddy in places and annoying not to run so much in the dark.
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| Another just wow moment |
I pulled ahead but waited as Brain and Tim were never far behind. From Fenetre Tzan I knew it was down and to a nice refugio where hopefully it would also start to get light. The descent needed a little care in places and would have been faster in the daylight. Once in the valley we should have run more but did have a few issues with missing flags and so had to take care. At Refugio Magia we all had a cat nap and more food. I was still almost 4 hours up. It was then up very steeply through woods and then still up to Cuney and the refugio by the chapel.
Over a col and then on to the Bivacco CP where Matt and I lay in the sun/shade last time. This time it was decidedly chilly so we actually sat in the glass box they had helicoptered in. Then it was off to the next Col before a big drop to Oyace.
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| Oyace is down there somewhere |
I ran ahead here and despite some stops to eat raspberries and stopping at the bar to buy a Calypo I arrived first.
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| Wasting time in Oyace |
The others had lost a vital flag and stopped to carefully check their route. Brian arrived as I was eating some very nice pasta and we hatched a plan to pre-order for Tim in the hope we might then leave together.
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| Tim tucking in and catching up |
In the end I left as I felt I had waited long enough and hoped they would catch me up as there were now two slightly lower passes before the Life base at Ollomont. The descent seemed less technical than I remembered although Sarah an American girl fell and damaged her knee badly. At the second CP I was offered special cake as I joked with the men about the drizzle making me feel like I was back in the UK. It spurred me on down and then on the gradual climb through the village to the CP. My memories of Ollomont were of chaos, being freezing etc. How different it was. I ate well (meat, polenta, another even better minestrone and beer), I slept in my sleeping bag and arranged to leave with Brian once we had eaten again. Tim arrived and got a bed next to Tim S so we didn't feel too bad leaving him. There were forecasts of severe cold and gales but eventually I found a guy who said not to worry those were at 3000m. Oh, and a nice guy gave me two slices of his pizza! The climb up through the woods is tough and by the time we arrived at the Refugio Champilon it was dark. We got past the snarling dog at the farm OK though and were greeted with wonderful lentil soup - taste and substance! The chef refused to comply with the RO and serve bouillon. The worst of the climb was now done and we were out of the trees into a splendid starry night as we climbed to the Col at 2707m. Brian stopped here to admire the views and I ran on knowing he would likely catch me before the forest track about 4km later. The next bit confused me slightly as the tiny CP with the beef bourguignon was replaced by a large muddy farm yard. I did enjoy the roast meat and spuds though Brian seemed bothered by the lack of hygiene at the farm. I knew the next bit was a wide track that mostly contours for almost 10km. I was keen to jog but we kept taking it in turns to stop to pee or sort torches. We did jog some of it. On the last big descent my shoe had split and I was now suffering all sorts of debris getting in. By Saint Rhemy Bosses we were both glad to take a break at just gone midnight.
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| Parcel tape to keep the stones out |
I got my shoe taped up, we ate and both managed a short sleep - Brian on the floor and me balanced on a very narrow bench. I was also surprised to see the other FV60 sat suffering. My climb to Frassati last time was from dawn and I loved it. This time in the dark I hit a real low - and this is perhaps the one place I was really really glad to have waited and to have Brian for company. We overtook FV60 lady twice and did pull away but on the hillside I just wanted to lie down and stop. I was falling asleep on my feet. We eventually made it to Frassati and did the maths. I could still break my time.. perhaps. Brian let me sleep but stayed awake to make sure I only had 15-20 minutes or so. He kicked me out with good wishes before going to sleep himself as he was keen to do Passage Malatra in daylight.
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| The long diagonal that I never felt I was on in the dark |
Without this I am sure I would have slept longer. It was dark and the chilliest yet as I plodded up to Passage Malatra with cag, hat and gloves (the iconic window where they take photos).
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| Passage Malatra |
In the dark I got a bit disorientated, never seemed to be on the diagonally rising path and suddenly was on the top section of narrow path with the fixed ropes.
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| The most gear I had on all race |
There was nobody else about so no worry of rocks. At the top I was met by a lone and frozen camera man. The safety guys had gone to sleep in their 'box'. I chatted for a moment and then tried to get my legs into gear for the descent. It was still very dark and I did not feel confident running the first section.
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| To tired and dark to run the descent this year |
As I rounded the corner 40 mins later the sun was just rising and lighting up the Grand Jorasses and Monte Bianco. Wow! I stopped to remove hat etc but mainly to dig out my phone and take pictures. It was stunning and I could even make out tiny figures on the glacier.
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| My phone did not do it justice |
I sort of gave up hope of beating my time but did eventually jog on, much to the relief of a German guy who was almost in tears of frustration. the cows had eaten or trampled all the flags and he had no idea where to go. Luckily I did and although I had to slow as a herd and calves came up the hill we were soon at the bridge near Arminaz and staring the balcony path.
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| Claudio |
Only about 10km to go. Could I do it? Maybe, so time to run a bit more. I couldn't run the ups but ran most of the way to Bertone. The guys there said under 5km to the finish and that was it. I was off! I went faster than I thought sensible on the stony path with so many trip hazards. It was early and there were not too many tourists on this UTMB path yet. As I reached the village of Villair I knew I could beat my time.
I am sure it was a slow jog but I felt I was flying down and into Courmayeur. Claudio my genepi friend wanted me to do a pit stop and drink with him but I only had eyes for the finish.
The relatively empty streets before 9am helped and there it was, the finish ramp. Knackered, elated and worried about where Bob was.
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| Relief at last |
I knew he wouldn't want to miss my finish so was worried about what had happened.
Apparently the tracker was still showing me up at Bertone. I got my medal, finishers shirt, signed the poster and was given a beer!
Bob arrived soon after and I got another beer! (it's important to rehydrate!)
More beer and then a walk through town for ice cream and to cheer on other finishers. Brian appeared soon afterwards and then later so did the other FV60. We walked back to the finish area to congratulate Brian.
I managed to be 1st FV60 by over an hour and only 2/6 of us finished.
349km with roughly 28000m of climb. 19 hrs 51 which beat last time by over half an hour.
114th overall, 12th F, 40% DNF rate overall.
Brits didn't do badly. Nicky was 3rd F with a great run. Paul Nelson, Tim L, Tim S, Brian and I all finished and Matt finished the big one - the Tor des Glaciers. The TOR is a qualifier for this but it is even longer, higher and unmarked - I don't think it is for me. Saturday was a wonderful rest day with a coffee and cake in town with our group and then a meal out in the evening. Lots of beer and pizza, plus of course more ice cream. I also tended to my feet that were in a pretty good state compared to some people, got a lovely wind down massage and emptied my drop bag. I had carried far too much - the clothing might have got used in wetter weather but I took too much food - or ate too little of it. I did use a fair bit of Mountain Fuel raw energy in my bottles and a couple of gels when real food was refusing to go down, plus a ginger bar that eased my stomach a little.
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| Glad the snow waited until I had finished this time |
Sunday was prize giving and the rain stopped, although the tops had a good dusting of snow, with an almost perfect weather window for outdoors celebrations.
The trophies were cool Aosta valley bulls - first 5 F/M in each race and then 1st V in each category. Only the Italians can make extended drum rolls and so much noise from people's names!
Another rather hurried pizza together and the gathering broke up with people making a dash through the tunnel to Chamonix for flights and trains.
We sorted the van and drove over the Petit St Bernard and back to France. The weather was not good enough for a Col top walk so it was on towards Via Ferattas near Chambery. The first one was a little damp and interesting but the two from near St Jean d'Arves were as amazing as usual. Sadly the next near Crolles was shut due to a serious rock fall and this seems to be a repeated theme - St Christophe, Crolles, Val d'Isere and two in the Maurienne valley.
Wow, a wonderful write up of a fantastic experience. Inspirational Karen.
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