Birthday challenge run

 A long run on my birthday is becoming a tradition- perhaps my attempt to deny ageing. I had several options in mind but one seemed too big (maybe later) and several of the others too short (might reserve the shorter ones for future years).  rs LDWA100 in the Midlands just did not enthuse me so I browsed the GoFar site and found the Dales Top 10, at 80 hilly miles it seemed perfect. There would be parts I knew but other sections that would be an adventure. Certainly no time to check it all out. Chris has helped on several of my solo runs and I wanted to invite him if he was available- just as well in the end as our van was off the road!  The next decision was deciding which day over the bank holiday would be best- the weather was pretty much the same but a family walk and lunch on Sunday and the hope that Monday into Tues would be quieter meant the run would be on my actual birthday.

Chilly start

Chris and I drove to Horton on Sunday evening and parked up by the now closed Primary School- plenty of space and very quiet so perfect. We went for a short stroll up the lane  and were stunned at how cold the air was thanks to the easterly wind. 

Super crew van

I slept well and woke refreshed at 5am. After a quick breakfast it seemed daft to hang about and at 5.40am I set off. 

A few walkers had already passed the van and I picked these off quickly as I jogged up the lane to Brackenclose and then the footpath towards my first Top Pen y Gent. 

The sun was already up and I was soon shedding layers. the views were awesome and the wildlife not yet disturbed by the masses. The peak loomed large although actually it is only the 9th highest. The rock steps were pleasingly dry and I was soon up at the trig point. Reversing the rock and heading towards Fountains Fell I saw y last people for several hours. I guess I could have skipped F Fell as it is 12th highest but my route sort of took me that way and the GPX from the GoFar website included it. I had two options here and having taken the least tarmac I now guess most people opt for tarmac and then the Pennine Way. My path was mostly dry but the long grass was still wet from overnight and before long my shoes were soaked. Once I reached the PW it was easier running and mostly down hill to the lane that would lead me north to Arncliffe. 

Not a fan of tarmac but speedy miles

I was making good time and the tarmac helped me increase this further. It was a shock to see a worried Bob in my car. He had misunderstood my spreadsheet where I had inserted road crossings and thought I was well behind time. Overall the lane descended but there was one very steep climb up from a stream. 

After birthday kisses I left Bob and took the bridleway behind the village to cross the river and climb Middlesmoor towards Kettlewell. Busy looking at the views I must have missed a small path and climbed higher over the spur than I had intended but it was on a nice grassy path and I didn't really mind. I had seen nobody for ages but Kettlewell was awake and starting to get busy. 

Mixed jogging and hill stomping led me through the village, past the campsite and onto the moor.  Hag Dyke was deserted and I think the last time I was here there was deep snow ( a Fellsman recee with Bob). Great Whernside (6th highest) was up ahead. This was going to be reverse Fellsman and so should be easy except a chilly wind as I reached the top had me dropping quickly for cover and I missed the small path. I dropped too low but found some trods and all was well as I reached the Park rash road crossing. It's is usually dark when I reach here so it made a change to see the scenery. Knowing I would be out all day and most of the night I made myself stop and eat properly. 

Warm now even on the tops

Back on track it was easy to reach the lower slopes of Buckden Pike. It was also a joy to find the bogs by the wall were now bone dry and I was soon up at the memorial. More and more flag stones are being added to the ridge path and I made good time to the trig where there was a small crowd of walkers including Bob and Chris. 

Making good time meant they had not yet completed their walk. More birthday misses and photos before we left Bob and Chris and I jogged down together chatting. 

The cows tried to guard the last gate but were easily moved and we reached the van on the Cray road. I spent a few minutes here eating, drinking and topping up my supplies. 

The stony Gilbert Lane up onto the next moor is fairly steep but I think I prefer flogging up than running down. There were lapwings and curlews everywhere, some getting very cross that I was close to their nesting areas. 

I found the turn off to Staling Busk easily and was delighted to find it was grassy! This lasted a while until it levelled out and became a gnarly track down and into the village. Field paths led me towards Marsett and another gnarly track.

I had not been here before and the 'small' ridge of Wether Fell I had to cross looked bigger than I had hoped. Luckily there were two struggling walkers up ahead and I promised myself I would overtake them by the stile and having done so had to jog on of course. I crossed the old Roman Road and could soon see Hawes nestled by the river Ure. I made  a determined effort not to look too far north to Great Shunner Fell. Lovely grassy field paths led me down and down to Gayle and then Hawes. I had done almost 50km and was moving quite well.  Worries that the small path cutting the corner in Hawes would be crowded proved unfounded and there was no queue at the icecream van. I stopped for a treat which vanished quickly and jogged over the river and towards Hardraw.

 It was more crowded here and I hoped they had found space to park the van and car. No worries- they had a space and were sat sunbathing with mugs of tea. 

Wow it was hot in this valley. I had planned a longer stop here to eat and to change my socks. I had a worrying hot spot on my foot and decided to take both heels. I also charged my phone which had somehow turned itself on. I was using Strava beacon so that they could track me and so needed the battery to stay good.

It was tough getting going after the stop even though the PW track is relatively easy going.  I plodded on trying to ignore the hot spots on my feet and wishing I could run or jog a bit more. 

Great Shunner Fell is 716m (3rd in height) and I was still up on time when I reached the deserted shelter stone at the top. I didn't linger as I knew the next section was perhaps the roughest with a couple of pathless sections.

Bob on his way up Buckden Pike

At least it had dried out in recent weeks and I found the quad bike track more quickly today.  The climb up past the shooting butts was grim and I felt very slow- still 5 tops done if you count Fountains Fell and I was still up on time. It was a relief to reach Hugh Seat at 689m and a decent path. This is 10th highest but not include in todays list? I must find out why. Nor is the next top Gregory Chapel which is 695m. I had to pass them anyway to reach the out and back peak of High Seat. 

The summit

At 709m the top of this is rather underwhelming but I was just glad to turn and know that the next few kilometres were downhill and on grass all the way to Hells Gap and the B road. I knew Chris was keen to check out this stream, gorge and waterfall but he was just a little too early to meet me. I stopped for more food and top ups before crossing the road and heading up to Swarth Fell. Despite my concerns about them driving tired they insisted they would see me in Garsdale. The ridge path was much drier than I have ever known it and I was so pleased that my route stopped at 681m and did not have to go all the way north to Wild Boar Fell even though that is 705m and 5th highest in the Dales. Running back down the ridge was a joy until I reached the low col and a boggy section and then the pathless slightly tussocky ground leading to the bridleway. Once into Grisedale it was farm lanes all the way to Garsdale. I had seen nobody for ages again but the birds were chirping away and I had seen deer, mice, shrews, rabbits, hares and now a fox. I had collected my torch just in case but certainly didn't need it yet even though the moon was starting to look interesting. 

So many meadows and flowers

The tarmac lane was boring if easy and I tried to identify and count wildflowers to distract myself. Before long I was at Dandra Garth and the van again. 

Moon is up but still light

They had managed a short snooze when I stopped to eat, drink coffee and replenish things again. I was struggling to eat now. 

Dandra Garth

I waved them bye as the sun was setting and the moon rising high. The bridleway over to Dentdale was drier and better than I remembered and it was a gorgeous evening. Dropping into the valley at Cowgill it was just getting dark and I put my torch on, partly to warn and drivers I met. I actually met none despite running several kilometres west along the bulk of Dentdale but they would not have been expecting a pedestrian and there were tall hedges with almost no verge. Eventually I reached the small bridge and woodland that we run past on the Fellsman. I was careful here as I wanted to take the first little used path and so avoid a farm yard and dogs. I found it despite thigh tall meadow grass and flowers. The water eroded stony path up to the old green lane was steeper and harder work than I had anticipated after my recee. I now had a choice- follow the hill straight up as on my recee or go along the green lane to the quarry in the hope that the paths there led all the way up. If they did I did not find them in the dark and that section of the green lane was awful with huge puddles and rocks. Perhaps neither way would be good at this stage in the run but I was very glad to have my poles as I flogged up the slope. Despite the sunset this was a low point- I needed to have eaten more- and I felt like I was crawling. Once on the top I quickly ran past Great Coum687m (10th) and on to Crag Hill 682m (11th). I have no idea why Crag Hill is included but the return trip was only about 1.5km and was relatively level. From this last trig I could see the lights of civilisation and a town.

The next job was to get back down to the green lane. I found a trod beside a wall from the col which took me most of the way. Fortunately this section of the old track is much better and I managed to jog most of the way to the road. Only two peaks to go now even if they are the two highest ones! Both guys were sleeping when I arrived and I felt quite guilty disturbing them, especially as I did not stop long as I did not really want to eat. I set off along the road linking Deepdale to Kingsdale and they promised to see me near the Hill Inn. I found the footpath up New Pasture and flogged up the back of Whernside. It was still warm as the mass of the hill protected me from the easterly wind. 736m and the highest peak done. I made reasonable time along the big ridge path but the wheels really came off on the descent. In the dark, on tired legs and with what seemed like constant multiple trip hazards I slowed dreadfully. I did not dare to cut across the grass as I had in daylight. The campsite was silent and as I reached the last cattle grid I spotted Chis who had come out to meet me. The moon was huge and bright yellow. Awesome. They had parked way up the road where it was wider- it wasn't far but I was perhaps a little grumpy about it. A brief stop and I was off up the last peak. 

Not from my run as it was still dark- last peak

Easy running to start with and even the flag stones ere OK. I slowed badly on the rock steps and over the summit plateau to the final trig at 723m. The path from here to Horton is a fair few kilometres but I had forgot how gnarly it is for tired legs. It seemed to take forever to reach a runnable path and I was losing much of my time advantage. As I hit the lower slopes and a decent path it was light enough not to need my torch and at last I could run. I really wanted to stay under 24 hours. 

I crossed the railway and ran through the village, past the old cafe, the campsite and the pub until the lane to the school. Yes- the van and car were in sight at last. 

Challenge complete- 80 miles, almost 5000m of climb and 23hrs 18 mins. 13 peaks although Fountains Fell and not Wild Boar Fell is still a puzzle. Not a bad way to spend the 24hrs of your birthday! 

I was too tired to want to eat and they had been asleep so I had a very quick and superficial wash before falling into bed. So many great memories of a grand day out in the beautiful Dales. 

Celebrations the next day

 Huge thanks to Bob for his support and encouragement and especially to Chris my super crewman for his time and the use of his van, including his bed for my smelly body at the end. I could not have done it without you both.