It's only a real challenge if you are not sure you can do it, right? That's what I told myself once I had entered and then got a bit scared. Could I finish the route or had I wildly over estimated my abilities? I really was not sure. The event was basically the GR10 which goes the length of the Pyrenees from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, or the other way which is apparently what most walkers do.
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| The Med back in March |
The race starts in Le Perthus and so skips the first 35km or so from the Med. I thought this was a shame and so ran that back in March after our ski holiday. It would be over 860km and with at least 65000m of climb.
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| The bit I had already done looked so tiny |
It all started last year at the GRP closing buffet when I spotted an unusual T-shirt and got chatting to the RO. I entered and then started to try to understand all that was expected of me. For over 60s he wanted a stress ECG but I could not see how to get this in the UK at any sort of sensible price. After a couple of emails I persuaded him that the age was arbitrary and that having done the TOR twice recently and various other 100 and 200 mile races surely I would be OK. I busied myself with the kit list and started gathering stuff I would need. There were things on this list that I was unhappy with but having met the RO and heard the stories of a 6 year battle in the courts against claims from the 2016 event I do understand a bit better. I still think ponchos are daft and would not be needed if those in the south of Europe used decent waterproofs and over trousers but hey ho. At least the food requirements got slimmed down, although we still needed to go to registration with a list documenting all our food in weight and Kcals. (not that anybody seemed to care from start day onwards).
My pack was about 11kg which as a % of my body weight was crazy. I did find some ways to reduce this after a few days and once I knew more about what was being provided- for example we had to have a power bank. I worried that to charge my phone, watch and torch it would need to be powerful and so bought a 28000mA/h one but it weighed a tonne. I should have ditched this earlier in the race. After registration nobody ever checked what food I left a BV with and I gradually honed what I was carrying to match what I was eating. The same with water - there was no way I would carry 3-4 litres and in most areas I did find extra water in sources, fountains and streams. The RO had recommended a filter. I opted for Chlorine tablets as they were so much smaller and lighter- I never used them.
Initially so much was unknown. Were the water sources really as few and dodgy as was being claimed? I will drink from most streams. What would the food be like and would I prefer what I was carrying? There would be charging facilities for torches, phones etc but what if several runners all wanted to use them? Would the nav be easy? - it is a GR after all but when I ran the first 36km back in March I had been shocked at how poorly marked some bits were.
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| Looking back to the Med on a day of very varied weather |
Plus there were sections where we diverted from the GR and used alternative paths. How would the sleeping work out? We were promised pop up tents at many CPs. So much to stress about. I did do a long slow run over local moors with my pack but perhaps should have done more... and with all my gear soaked in sweaty water a few times to make it realistic. I had won new shoes last summer and hoped the La Sportivas would be a good option- great on rock, sort of OK on mud and with a big protected toe cover. I had run in them twice and they seemed OK. Initial rules said we must not enter a vehicle so there seemed little point having Bob support me- this changed.
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| Fort Bellegarde - the start |
I tried to use other long races like the TOR Tor des Geants) to make a rough schedule but so much was unknown and clearly I would need to sleep more over this event. It would only take a few really rough paths or a spell of bad weather to change my plans radically. I sort of hoped for 14 days (having seen the fastest men would do 12 or so). In the end the winners were between 24-48 hours slower than last time and so my eventual 15 days 9 hours (or 5hrs if you deduct the race paused time) were not too bad at all.
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| Fort Bellegarde looking south into Spain |
I kept telling myself it was an adventure and a challenge not a race. My bronze standard was to finish. Silver perhaps in under 16 days and gold would be 14. I never aim for positions as I cannot control who else enters or how fast they are. There were 10 or 12 females and I was definitely the oldest.
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| New shirt and ready to go |
A couple of months of van issues stressed me further but we set off for France in mid July. There was virtually no running but lots of climbing and some cycling and paddle-boarding. I guessed running at this stage would not make much difference and I was anxious of a trip, fall or sprain. Van issues continued and we had a unplanned day or so in the Dijon area before continuing south where it got hotter and hotter.
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| Race umber and nice coat |
I has glad to have been to the start area in March as we had picked a good wild camp spot for the van- our own private layby so nice and quiet. It was only 1km or so below the fort.
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| Scary that my sack looks bigger than my drop bag in this |
On the last day of July I wandered up to registration in Fort Bellegarde. It is usually closed so this was my first visit inside and it is impressive. The kit check was quite thorough and I handed over my Drop Bag of 15kg. I would only see this 3 times which in the 870km seemed very little (compared to 5 or 6 times in the 330km of the TOR).
Once I had my race number, tracker, T shirt and fleece I wandered around chatting and finding those I had met on line. I was the only person from the UK but there was an American and two Canadians plus Mona from Norway and some Japanese guys. I was willing to speak French but it is good to know who you can communicate with easily when you are super tired.
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| All 90 of us |
I also spotted two french people I knew from the GRP. Grand Raid de Pyrenees) I lazed at the van all afternoon and went back to the fort for a very, very long briefing and then the pasta party. Race day morning stretched out forever and I just wanted to get going. We were starting at midday as the RO was concerned about the crazy heat- he wanted us to have a shorter first day and get acclimatised.
It was HOT as we posed for photos in the Fort and then marched off out over the drawbridge and onto the trail. There were 90 of us and for the first km or so it felt crowded.
I remember some dusty trails and then some tarmac and then much more wooded sections which at least gave us some shade. I ran with a Foreign Legion guy for a bit and it was good to chat. He had never run over 100 miles before and sadly did not finish although his colleague did. There was a col at 14km with some supporters and the RO pleading with us not to go off too fast. The rest of the afternoon passed in a blur but with no navigation issues.
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| I lost my cap with neck flap at CP4 in an over-crowded dorm |
I ran on my own but had others close by for much of the time. The first CP was at an Ecogite and the food was amazing. Miso soup, a huge rice salad, cake, fruit. I had already planned to eat when ever I could and to make time to do so. Sat outside in semi shade and all trying to air our feet.
To keep going for a fortnight this would be essential. It was only another 7km or so to the next CP and I was keen to arrive before dark. The trail through the woods was mostly good and I had some company for most of it although the eroded descent to the town did slow me down. Bob was waiting here before going of on some adventures of his own. The CP was in the village hall so I went in to eat. It was now decision time- the midday start was a pain as it was now dark and the next CP was about 12km away up (over 1200m of climb) in the mountains- possibly 3 hours. I knew I had to do at least 50km a day to meet cut-offs. That sounded so easy on paper! I had done 43km on a half day so I decided not to trash myself too early. I tried to sleep in the hall along with a few others but it was too bright and noisy so after 4 hours we just got up, had a quick snack and went.
I set off with Eric but he was too fast for me and in trying to keep up I was knackered. I arrived at CP3 a boarded up ski place feeling grim and struggled to eat before throwing up. Oops. From here on I pledged that whilst company was great I would go at my own pace even if it meant being alone. From a very steep wooded climb we moved onto open alpine like pastures for a while.
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| Great views in the Canigou area |
Soon the sun came up and my spirits lifted. It was a nice trail and it was very hot. It is a popular area for walkers but I did not see that many people except near the refuges.
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| Not a path for easy running |
We snaked around Pic du Canigou for much of the day and the navigation was mostly easy.
I had two short horizontal rests in the shade and was pretty much on my own but I had not got lost, was covering a reasonable distance and I had found water sources.
Just before CP4 I had a small panic. I knew that after this CP we would leave the GR for a while and follow different signs, so when I hit a hamlet and found those signs I wandered where the CP was- surely I had not missed it. Phew- I hadn't CP in Py village was about 1km further on.
I arrived in daylight, ate, had a small blister attended to and went in to find a space to sleep as it was getting dark. The chance of a real bed in a dorm seemed too good to miss. 95km done and all OK despite a 15 hour day. I did get some sleep and set off pre dawn with Sylvain. He was great company and we would see each other a fair bit over the next few days.
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| Sylvain on the left and also Jerome- great to make new friends |
His family were supporting him and he spoke better English than my French. I was glad we were together as this trail was much less used and quite overgrown and tricky to follow in the dark. It wandered strangely until we arrived at a rocky ledge with quite a drop to the side.
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| Near Nyer with Sylvain |
It was another hot day and as we passed a campsite at Nyer I tried to beg some boiling water for one of my dehydrated meals. No luck and I now know hot tap water is not good enough without a very long wait. The trail now climbed along the side of a valley with a very hot pipe and some sulphur springs.
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| Not my photo as when we ran past there was a naked man |
We made a couple of small errors on a confusing set of paths, crossed the Little Yellow Train track several times and had good views back down the valley to a massive viaduct. By lunch time had arrived at a decent cafe near a thermal spa. Food and ice cream plus a short rest, there were 5 of us so already the pack was getting pretty spread out. The trail then got easier and crossed some villages with views to a ski area. Sylvain was met by a group of running friends and I found Bob in the van. After a quick stop and some cold Panache I plodded on to the next CP in Bolquere alone.
It was mid afternoon and very hot. The break was welcome as was all the food- ravioli, cheese, chorizo, soup, fruit... My feet were still OKish and there was still lots of day light left. After an initial climb through the village on tarmac it was then big tracks through some forest and the back edge of the nearby ski resort of Font Romeu before reaching higher and more open land with good runnable paths and wonderful views.
I checked out a bothy hut but it was too early to stop. Approaching Lac des Bouillouses I considered a bivvy and in doing so missed a group of fellow runners which was a shame. The trail around the lake was a bit more rocky and slow but it was still daylight even though the weather seemed to be changing for the worse.
Then as I left the lake and the trail became grassy the dusk began and so did the rain. Before long I could not ignore this and had to stop to hide my phone and put on full waterproofs.
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| Storm approaching |
I knew there should be another bothy in about 6km. It was a very long 6km and all up hill. Once dark it also became foggy. This and the rain meant sticking on the path over increasingly rocky sections was not easy as I struggled to pick up the red and white GR flashes. I went slower and slower and still made mistakes. By the time I found the bothy I was getting cold, damp and rather stressed. It was full and although two of us squeezed in between all those already trying to sleep there was not really space to lie down and I could not even get my neo air out. I was relieved to be out of the weather but a hard chilly concrete floor in a semi-reclined position was not very restful.It was almost a relief to get up 4 hours later! It was still dark and rainy but they were all leaving so I was awake and got ready to leave with them. It seemed sensible to help each other navigate and this did work for a bit but I was slower over the technical rocky sections. I imagine this area is stunning in good weather with views to Pic Carlit and more. I opted to descend the towering rocks and winding trail on my own as it was safer than trying to keep up. I made a small error onto the GR7 but quickly corrected this and soon caught two of the others up again as they had stopped for a brief rest at refuge Besines.
From here it was light and all downhill to BV1 Base Vie/ Life Base) in Merens where I would get my drop bag. The long out and back to the CP on a campsite seemed much more than the suggested 800m and it was still raining although not as hard.
There were only half a dozen of us in the marquee so at least there was plenty of space. The 'chef' was superb and I ate well before replenishing my sack from my drop bag. Clean dry socks were great but my shoes were soaked and I had more blisters appearing at the sides of both heels. Still, 176km done. The 1km or so back to the GR trail meant I passed incoming runners and this boosted my spirits as did the fact the rain had almost stopped. I was solo again but not too bothered.
I really enjoyed the next section despite the 1430m climb as it was along a beautiful valley, up past lakes and streams and onto the rocky path that was a roller-coaster with some fairly major climbs and descents twisting over rocks and past tiny tarns all the way to more open land and CP6 in Refuge Rulhe.
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| Approaching the refuge it had almost stopped raining- for a while |
The refuge was packed with non- event people walking the GR10 or parts of it. Wet gear was hanging everywhere and it was steamy. I did though buy and enjoy a hot chocolate and an omelette. It was mid/late afternoon.
Eric who I had been with after CP2 and it in the overcrowded bothy announced that he was taking a big break after the previous awful night and when a storm was reported I thought I might do the same. However, it was only about 5pm and I didn't really want to sit around until 3am when he planned to leave. I deliberated for some time and then Guillaume arrived. He was leaving once he had eaten and we teamed up. This was a great choice as from here onwards we saw a fair bit of each other and I was at times very glad of his company. I repacked all my gear (and lost my silk liner) and we set off in full waterproofs. We both tried to use our second language and had quite few laughs as a result but we got on well.
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| Leaving CP6 |
The next section proved my thoughts on ponchos correct. Guillaume's kept flapping madly, annoying him and then as it obscured his feet he tripped. He hurt his knee but it could have been worse. After a fairly exposed ridge we dropped down, the wind abated and then the rain stopped. The next section was open rough grassland and not unlike parts of the UK, maybe the Howgills.
It mostly passed without incident and we even ran some of it. There was a short spell where we encountered the 'crazy killer cows' who kept chasing and charging us but we escaped unscathed. As we approached the Plateau de Beille we saw lights. It was some of his family who had come out to meet him. The wide trail was a muddy mess from farm vehicles and the rain but the family were a welcome sight. Even better they had campervans parked at the col's tiny ski resort with stoves and food. I was invited to join them and plied with soup, coffee, bread, chees and chocolate as sat in a chair and was draped in blankets. What stars.
We opted to push on together as although it was dark it was still fairly early and the rain had stopped. The next 10km section was one of my least favourite- it was the notorious Ariege after all. It was mostly a small path that we kept losing, poorly marked through muddy forests with deep rocky gorges and some very steep descents and climbs. Because it was dark we lost all sense of directions and perspective. It felt like we were on a never ending Escher style staircase. Definitely one of my low points and I was struggling to stay positive. We made a few small errors but fortunately were able to correct them. We failed to find one bothy but it seemed daft to go back and try again so we pushed on and fortunately did find the next.
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| Leaving in daylight- I guess we had needed the sleep |
I felt bad disturbing others at 3am (two walkers and a Portuguese runner) but they took it well. We slept well partly because as I tried to set my alarm my tired brain just changed my watch time. The walkers had a stove and kindly made us a coffee. It was 7am and light when we set off, a real lie in! The initial chilly air warmed quickly as we climbed up into the sunshine. A much better day in prospect but it was going to be hot again. The paths on the tops were runnable for a while- so much so we raced off downwards on the wrong track.
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| Quite a few sunken ancient walled tracks near the villages |
The drop to Siguer and CP7 was gnarly and a bit slippy after all the rain plus my poor feet had now been wet long enough to be suffering on anything that was not a very even surface.
Even by mid morning it was very hot as we sat first in the hall eating and then outside trying to dry socks and shoes. Guillaume opted for a nap so I pushed on alone expecting him to catch me at some point. The CP staff were wonderful and kept plying us and tempting us with different food. One of the team was out taking photos in their 'down-time'.
I had found that when I was alone I could stop for 2-3 mins and eat nuts, dried fruit etc and this mini break was the best way for me to feed properly and to rest. I had hoped for an ice cream in the next village, Goulier, but we only clipped the edge of the pretty village and I wasn't going to add more distance searching for a treat.
I did find wild raspberries though. On the map the next section looked a real opportunity to run on a contouring path.
Hmm- rocky , narrow, lots of trip hazards, places to bash your head on rocks jutting out and a serious drop to the right. Perhaps not.
Climbing out of the next valley and heading to Marc I was making good time but then being tired stopped being careful. I reached a sign post and saw a sign to Marc. What I did not notice was that the other way was also to Marc. In my defence the road book usually highlighted potential issues like this but not here. By the time I realised my mistake I could not face turning back and I was still on a GR anyway. My route was further but flatter.
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| Following a concrete water channel- nice and easy |
Then I lost the GR signs and panicked. Instead of stopping and searching I decided I should climb up and reach the true path. OK, fine in theory but there was no path, lots of trees, lots of mud and leaf litter in places knee deep and it was very steep. At least going up I could spot the small cliffs and so was in no danger. I only took one slide back downhill for about 50m but the whole jolly cost me over an hour. The crazy decisions you make when you are alone and tired! How could a GR just disappear? Others had the same issue with 2 GRs although Guillaume found markers all the way on my 'alternative' route and so did not have the 'fun' climb I did. I eventually arrived at Marc very tired and cross but at least Bob was there in the van.
This is where I first got to know Laurent who was running and his wife Eva who was supporting in their van. She had locked them out which was something of a disaster. Luckily Bob had tools and helped them break in. Laurent had been using their van all through the race and it was now rumoured that we could sleep and eat in vans. This made sense given that we were allowed to pay to stay in hotels, gites etc. So, I ate well in the van and then settled to sleep on my comfy bed. I set off around 5am alone in the dark but happy with 253km under my belt.
Once through the village the path followed a concrete water course before turning sharply uphill towards a big lake and the refuge Bassies.
It was beautiful even though the rain had made it muddy. Sadly the low cloud then rolled in and spoilt views of Pic Rouge.
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| The sun sadly did not last |
I met a Swiss guy and we ran together for a bit on some great paths as they zig zagged down from the col. I bet the scenery would have been great if we could have seen it.
Approaching a road through a col there were suddenly more people about and more paths to select from. The path I needed was hidden by two parked cars. Then in the woods I concentrated on a walker coming up the path and missed a turn.
It was a costly error in the woods- the error is always going downhill with a big climb to put it right. Laurent came running past as I was back on the correct path and berating myself. The downhill to CP8 in Aulus was initially very steep and tricky so I did not try to stay with him. Gradually it levelled out and became easier going. Aulus village itself had an old core, spa hotels from 100 years ago and lots of people. It was a short out and back to the CP8 on the campsite. Again I stopped long enough to make sure I ate well and aired my feet. The menu was extensive and with only 4 or 5 of us to feed we had individual service. Guillaume arrived soon after me and we left pretty much together. As we retraced our steps to the GR I spotted a very unhappy looking Eric. I had been sure that he would be miles ahead but he was suffering with an injury and in fact abandoned not long afterwards.
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| They were spectacular and there was water everywhere after the rain |
It was a hot and steamy climb up to the cascade d'Ars. Having company made it easier and people were now settling into more of a steady pace. I saw Sylvain again and Jerome as well as Guillaume. I made a slight detour to see the falls and so ended up solo for a while. The trail was steep and muddy in places so it was good to see Guillaume's support had driven up a dirt road to meet us on the next col at the top of a ski lift. It was chilly in the wind and mist. A quick snack break and we were off on a rather nasty path churned up by mountain bikes and cows.We reached CP9 on the campsite in St Lizier at 7pm. The food was good again and I spent some time having my feet looked at- the wet trails of Ariege had trashed them with blisters on the side of my heels and a tiny but deep hole under the ball of one foot where it met my toes.
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| It's antiseptic not blood! |
Sylvain arrived too and his elder daughter was intrigued but horrified at my feet. She couldn't stop watching but her face was a picture. By the time all this had gone on it was chilly and dark so I decided with 298km done, over 1/3rd now I would sleep for a little while. The bonus was that they moved a camp bed and blanket into the tent for me. More comfort and no need to blow up and then later deflate and pack away my neoair and sleeping bag. Guillaume and I agreed to set off in a few hours time and carry on through the night to Conflens. It was late when we got there but another 10km was ticked off. He tried to sleep in his van but with all the family it was crowded and I don't think he slept very well.
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| First light near Mnt Valier the day after Conflens- superb scenery here |
I slept in an old lavoir that had been converted to a picnic area- I was very grateful for them scoping this out for me. It was quite comfy with a broad wooden bench to lie on. I even had my own toilet and I slept well until a van woke me at 4.30am.
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| The area around Mnt Valier was stunning |
A quick repack of my sack and I was back at his van before Guillaume was up.
I begged hot water for my meal and we had a coffee before setting off together. The rest of his family tried to ignore us and stay asleep.
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| These were all the morning after the lavoir and before Aunac! |
Ivan a runner from Quebec was keen to tape my feet and wanted to use'TOR' style taping. It encased the front of both feet entirely which was good for the maceration but unfortunately hid the hole.
Plus concentrating on that meant the heel blisters had less tape and padding than I would have liked. It was 1pm and boiling so we all took our time resting in the sun and drying out shoes and socks. From there to the road at Col de la Core was only 8km but it felt hard work to me and I really felt I was struggling to keep up with Guillame for the first time. It was a big climb and it continued after we crossed the road at the col.
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| Sunset paths and raspberries on the way to my solo bothy hut. |
Aunac is at 770m and our next high point at 1920m. Another big climb. Soon after the col Sylvain, Jerome, Riou and I all ended up pretty much together.
It was tough but a gorgeous late afternoon with a stunning lake and peaks, then a beautiful inversion and wonderful sunset.
One of the better parts of Ariege. Oh, and lots of raspberries. Sylvain and Riou stopped at the first bothy hut and the others had gone on ahead a bit.
The descent to Maison Valier suddenly looked really steep and not very attractive in the dark. I knew I would be slow in the dark and did not want to slow them down.
I opted to stop at the next hut only a few 100m off our path while Guillaume and Jerome planned to go all the way down into the valley.
There was just one other occupant in my hut- a Portuguese guy reading poetry and very interested in our adventures. He was walking West to East, slowly.
I slept well and got up pre dawn. I had no idea of knowing if the others had already set off. The steep trail eventually got easier but in the valley near Maison Valier there were multiple GR routes and variants plus 'touristy' paths near the car parks and refuge. I got confused more than once and was getting very frustrated in the dark. I could see nobody at the refuge where I hoped I might get some breakfast and so pushed on. It was a tough climb but it was now light, and hot again.
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| Vulture and carcass - I think on the mountains as we dropped to Fos. |
On this next section there were many sheep and we met our first Patou- dogs trained to see off any dangers to the flock, usually from wolves. A female hiker had gone up the trail ahead of me and had no issues so I stayed on the path too. One dog did come and bark once but I dropped my head, made myself small and put my poles low. I passed with no issue. I knew Guillaume was not far behind me when all hell broke loose. The dogs were racing up to him barking, snarling and barring their teeth. Then the herdsman started shouting and swearing from below. The poor guy had to make a cross country detour to appease them all. I am not sure whether it is because he was bigger, smelt different but he was certainly seen as more of a threat. The next herd was enormous with several hundred sheep spread widely over the hillside. Oh heck, what to do? We left the path and circuited wide past most of the herd but started counting the dogs...9 and they were not happy, what the hell. Then we found a bear print. I guess the farmer had reason to be anxious. We were very relieved to get through without mishap and to continue down to CP11 at a small road. This was the worst CP yet really. Not the fault of the marshal at all but just a gazebo, small stove and two chairs. She did have a little food which was unexpected and boiled water for one of my dehydrated meals. My tracker was apparently showing only 15% battery... There was no power supply to charge it here. I would likely be with Guillaume to Fos and would worry about it there. It was the middle of the day and baking hot. I should have made a better effort to find shade or a way down to the river. I did eat and rest though. The climb from here was tough in the heat but the trail and scenery were great. Even the ancient mining area was interesting with ruins, tunnels and old machinery lying around.
Refuge d'Araing was not a CP and had no ice cream left but we did stop to buy drinks, top up water and soak in the scenery. It was busy with people staying in the hut, day walkers and lots of tents wild camping. I was most jealous of those who had time to swim in the lake.
From here to Fos is a bit hazy but the trails were certainly better than in the Ariege. My feet were very sore and so when we had track or tarmac it was almost a relief.
Stopping was the worst thing. Getting going hurt but after 20 mins I managed to just blank it from my mind providing I didn't catch my foot on an unexpected rock. Approaching the town of Fos some of his family came out to meet us again. It lifted our pace a bit and kept us on track even if I was cursing all the little off tarmac short cuts that hurt my feet. We looked down on the old border car parks and then continued along the valley side to the very far northern end of the village. The CP had been moved to a gite but only one room and we had to be quiet for the real guests upstairs. I ate and sorted my gear and charged my torch, phone and garmin. It was almost a ritual and second nature now. I also found out here that Paulette the American woman had bailed along with Bruce the Canadian and that Mona the Norweigen lady had arrived here several hours earlier but with a badly damaged achilles so she had also retired. I was now first and only woman out of the 10-12 who had started (very frustrating that once you stopped the trackers did not show you as DNF, you just disappeared making it hard to know how many had dropped). It was dark by now and so I opted to sleep. This meant a walk through the village to the campsite but the CP staff did escort me there. I slept quite well and got up at dawn. Back at the CP I grabbed a coffee and some breakfast before setting out alone. Guillaume was not yet ready.
Initially it was easy going on old lanes and an old road by the river. No traffic, just getting light and lots of wildlife. I saw huge deer, a wild boar with 'piglets' and hoped not to see any bears this low down. The climb up was through some really pretty beech woods on a nicely angled zig zag path with no mud.
It was another massive climb to the open tops but so worth it. The views south into the big mountains which even had snow were superb. The road book showed a dangerous section of path but in the daylight I could not see where this could be. I stopped to take in the views and to cool off several times but the tops were quite runnable in places.
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| Getting closer to my beloved Haute Pyrenees |
Then came to big drop to the next valley. At first this was steep but then after some pretty villages it became flat as we neared Luchon.
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| The high Pyrenees and a few snow patches |
At 429km I wanted to celebrate roughly half way and so stopped for an ice cream- it was lunch time and I struggled to get served and then found they only had Magnums, ah well. A short run through a park took me to the BV in a sports stadium.
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| Yay- amazing views and good paths. Run. |
I would see my drop bag again here and so be able to shower, change clothes and get dry clean socks. The shower and a clean pair of knickers were real luxuries. I had a good rest and ate plenty too.
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| I didn't realise this was being taken and was miles away |
My feet were attended to and I had a short lie down in the basement of the stadium but even down here it was warm. It was very hot and the middle of the day so it seemed daft hanging around for long.
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| Ready to go again- I think |
Guillaume had arrived but I set off alone. Laurent and Jerome were not far ahead although I could not actually see them yet.
It was a bit confusing in the town but then I spotted a 'real' ice cream shop and treated myself to a huge pot of three flavours. My half way celebration treat at last.
Then it was up and up to Super Bagneres ski resort but on decent trail. I could see Jerome up ahead and tried to keep him in sight.At some point after this Jerome, Guillaume and I ended up together. On tired legs the trail felt technical as we dropped to the next valley. It was dark as we reached Col d'Espinga and there were some tricky bits down big rock steps and boulders on very wet paths. Below us we could hear thundering water and at one point on a narrow path above a deep drop to a gorge there was even a wire hand rail. It seems when ever there is a CAUTION on the map I will meet it in the dark at the end of a tough day. Refuge d'Oo was dark and we carried on gradually descending the valley. Laurent was in his van and the others had plans and vans. I had no idea what to expect at Granges d'Astau but was surprised to find big car parks and several buildings with cafes and accommodation. It was a strange evening- still very warm and with a fierce but hot wind. I decided I would sleep in the open air on the decking under the awning of one of the cafes seating areas. It must have been gone 11pm when I settled down but nobody bothered me and I slept until 3ish.
I set off alone but soon spotted Laurent. It was good to get out of the tourist bit and onto the GR trail in company of another navigator. He pulled ahead as I knew he would but that was fine. There were big herds of dairy cows with calves but they were docile. After a mega 1700m climb I reached the open tops with lovely trails and amazing views.I had to stop to admire the high Pyrenees. This middle section of Haute Pyrenees is definitely the best and much nicer than most of Ariege. I took photos and then concentrated on the descent.
I knew it was not far to Vielle Aure and for me home turf but there was a big ridge in the way. By the time I reached the villages just above the valley floor it was hot but at least there were water sources. By the time I reached the town in the valley it was boiling and mid morning. I was hungry and decided to get a supermarket picnic. A can of coke a huge slice of tart citron and some fruit. Heaven. It powered me up over the last ridge and was worth the time it took. Parts of this trail had been damaged by rain and cattle but I could see the mountains above St Lary. It felt like coming home. The trail hit that valley much further south than I had anticipated and so reaching Bourisp took a while but I was happy. I had texted Bob with my requests knowing that the supermarket was only 500m from the CP and that he knew the village well. I put things on charge, ate CP food and then moved outside where it was cooler. I sat resting and eating yogurt, fruit and more. It was still hot when I set off and so very slow through the village and up through the mines. Guillaume had arrived not long before I left.
As I climbed up onto the ridge it was hard not to wish I was doing the GRP as I do most years.
Usually I am on this ridge heading down at the end of the race. It is much easier running down but I did make reasonable speed on the climb.
Up and up gradually through the pastures with views into St Lary ski area to the south and always with the dreaded Col du Portet up ahead.
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| Back towards Merlans |
We stayed high instead of the usual drop to Merlans restaurant so we had less climb than I am used to here and it was a joy to run on these contouring paths as they now very gradually climbed into one of the most beautiful areas of the whole route.
By refuge Bastan it was getting rocky and I knew it was a big climb to the col before more rock and Campana. The new refuge there looked spectacular in the dusk. I knew there would be some tricky rocky bits especially in the dark but that was fine and I was confident that I knew the way. The black and yellow Salamanders all over the paths were a bonus.
After the last col and the last lakes I dropped to where the water is channeled for HEP.
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| Last light of the day |
Wow. I have never seen water spraying over the big metal bridge before. I stopped and watched. It seemed to be coming in pulses which allowed me to time my crossing and not get drenched. The noise was thunderous. I thought I knew the trail here well but we usually turn north and head for La Monge. I expected grassy trail descending slowly to the road at Artigues that crosses the Col D'Aspin. It wasn't. It was mostly rocky, in places quite slippy and muddy and of course it was now dark. It seemed to take forever and ever. Another low point. I could see car headlights and brake lights but where was the road? I had forgotten the path runs parallel to but well below the road for a few kilometres. Eventually I reached the village and the car park but no Bob. He had had an exciting drive in the dark and had parked in an earlier car park fearing the road might get narrow and that there might not be another car park. We put the App Turf on so I could 'home in' on the van. I was happy to eat and fall into bed.
A pre dawn start caused me some stress relocating the GR trail out of the first car park and onto the hill but once found all was good. Artigues is lower down the valley than where we usually cross and so the climb was worse. Before long I was on a path used by the GRP a few years ago and slowly climbing up towards the Col de Sencours. Once light it got warmer and warmer. As I looked back down the valley and by the time I could see the true crest of the col (there are several false summits) I could see Guillaume behind me and trying to catch up.
We arrived at the Col close together at about 8am and were greeted by the injured Eric who had offered to marshall there. At least we did not need to climb the Pic du Midi today! A beautiful spot and a special place for him to spend to spend a few nights even if chilly. He made us coffee and took photos.
From the col it is a big track and then nice trails heading down to Tournaboup below the Col Tourmalet and all the way you have views into some of the best of the Pyrenees- the Neouvielle.
Sadly the RO did not get permission for the race to go through there.
I could see our van but not an easy way through the fields and my GPX said it was wrong. I ran down, back up and then eventually spotted Bob waving madly and just ducked the electric fences and went down.
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| Pic du Midi in the background |
A quick refuel and I was off down the road towards the very crowded Bareges. Here I got so side tracked by pizza and cakes in shop windows that I missed a turn and added a few metres.
Bareges to Luz was easy until I reached the town. I was on my own and the signs were very confusing. One set of GR signs were definitely not going the correct way, there were some small blue Transpy signs but these took me so far and then seemed to run out. I retraced my steps and met Guillame. Together we eventually worked it out with the help of a lady on a cheese stall but I do not think it was the shortest route. I should have just followed my nose as the GRP uses the same CP but I was anxious about losing the GR etc. At midday the town was heaving with the pavements so full they were over-spilling onto the road which added to our stress.
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| Last village before Luz |
We arrived at the CP sweaty and stressed and told poor Eric what I thought of his signage. He did go out and added more. I ate plenty and then went outside to lie in the shade. It felt very strange as the last time I was there just over a year ago the room was packed solid with runners and we were spilling out the doors. Guillaume's family were there with a picnic and he was not ready so I set off solo.
I felt crazy slow as I followed the GR in the opposite direction to normal and towards Sazos and Grust. It was roasting hot and by this second village I was soaked in sweat even though the path had not really had any massive climbs. I really needed a rest before tackling the climb up to the ski area.
I found a whole series of water troughs to soak my head and body plus fountains for drinking water but it did not seem enough. I needed a lie down. On the dusty trail up out of Grust I had to stand aside for a huge convoy of off road scooters but it was a relief to have an excuse to stop. It was reverse GRP all the way up to the ski area and Col de Riou 1950m.
Again I had to stop and lie down at the bottom lift. There was a maze of paths across the open land- paths, ski runs, farm tracks etc. I just wandered up to roughly where I needed to be. Once over the Col things improved and I was able to jog some of the way down to Cauterets until it got very steep and dusty on one section in the woods. It helped knowing the way and as I approached the town I realised I knew where I would meet the road and which campsite the CP would be on.
I could see our van from the lanes above the town. Bruno was a great host and I was well fed. I also got my worst foot seen to again and made use of the campsite toilets. I met Eva who told me Laurent was already sleeping. Before long I too was asleep, in our van.
Another pre dawn start saw me wandering through the town to the vicious wooded uphill. It is a good trail but very steep until you reach a quiet road that then takes you to the path up the high valley.
I was treated to a lovely sunrise and once out of the forest was caught by a Jos Naylor look alike. He had no gear with him, was powering up at some speed and had the same face and body as Jos.
The trail became rocky and I tried not to let him get too far ahead.The scenery by refuge Ilheou is beautiful with amazing reflections in the lake. It was still early and so very quiet when I stopped to admire the view and eat a second breakfast.
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Up through herds of cows and then down through pastures for some distance and then woods on large tracks. I think it was here that I saw the vulture and carcass. I also got a lovely surprise when just before the road and Auberge d'Estaing I heard my name. It was a runner I knew from the GRP who happened to be in the area on holiday and had checked out the race and tracker link in the hope that she would see me. After checking I didn't need anything they wished me luck and I ran down to the road. A quiet road led me past an Auberge where Guillame's family were waiting and then towards Estaing and our van.
All the villages here had fountains so water was thankfully not really an issue. Some clearly had lots of history and it was a shame not to stop and learn more. Field paths, a track and some lanes led me to the next village.
A small error let Guillame catch me up but we arrived in Arrens-Marsous together. His family were waiting just above the pretty bridge but Bob was not meeting me here. The village was quiet despite a mining museum and some shops. I had to rest at the top of the village and it was so hot. I was alone again but knew Guillame might get back with me before the next CP at Gourette. The climb up the Col de Soulor felt hard work but the kilometres were gradually passing. After some open tops the path down to the town was quite steep with sections of high bracken and some big rocks.
Somewhere above Gourette I met Guillaume's family coming up the trail. Usually they met us not far out from the CP but this time there were at least another 3km to go. I don't know what I was expecting but Gourette is a ski resort and I got a bit confused both on a myriad of paths between individual chalets and then in the rather ugly centre of the resort where I added a short loop. The CP was at the far lower edge of the resort- isn't it always. Bob was waiting at the CP as was Guillaume's van and what seemed like a huge extended family group. I used the CP toilet, ate in our van and as it was only 4.30pm prepared to set off again. It had been claggy all day so Bob had not bothered with his walk or the Via Ferrata which was a shame.
Guillaume and I set off in the late afternoon and climbed out of the clag into glorious sunshine and stunning views
The most amazing temperature inversion with an absolutely massive sea of clouds all the way back to the easily recognisable Pic de Midi. Certainly an evening to remember.
Many photos were taken as the sunset made it even more special.
After the col it clagged in and we could not even see the lake nearby below us. The path started to descend rapidly and it became a bit sketchy. I slipped twice on the loose path grazing my leg and then my elbow. It was only about 22km from Gourette to the next CP at Gabas but what an evening we had. The weather made it difficult with thick fog and soaking vegetation.
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| Before it clagged in and the weather changed |
The path was tricky at best. Then we could not find the bothy hut we hoped for and it all got a bit weird. We were both tired and struggling to communicate in our second language. We had a phone call from his wife saying we had missed the bothy but there was another bothy. Poor signal and calls that just kept ending did not help and was just wasting time.Then a phone call came from the RO saying the race was paused as the weather was dangerous- Yes, true but we cannot just stop here! Wandering off the main path trying to locate a small bothy seemed daft so we agreed that exhausted or not the best option was to push on. Guess what- yep - the road book showed another section of hazardous path! A bit of a hand rail, serious drops to the side but actually a good path compared to the torture of the rubble strewn main path earlier. The path got over grown and we swore and encouraged each other on. Even when we hit the road Gabas CP seemed to take forever to reach and cars were whizzing by in the fog on twisty narrow lanes. It was a small CP under the porch of a shop but they gave us coffee and had put tents up. All I needed was to lie down. It was about 1.30am and had been a 20 hour day.
We had agreed to leave together at 6am but Guillaume's family had been forced to stop driving in the fog and he wanted to wait to see them. I set off alone at about 6.30 when the RO allowed the race to restart. I was promised 4 hours time to be given back to me although it really didn't matter much. It was still dark and misty but on lanes and then a big track. I arrived at a huge dam, a big tourist area with several huge pay car parks and then big tracks and pony trekking etc.
As I climbed past lakes and the light arrived so did the views. It was stunning as I approached Refuge Ayous but it was busy on the paths and the Refuge by the lake looked even busier.
With relief I turned off the busy path before the refuge and headed up a quieter GR path to a high col.
Again there were lots of big herds of dairy cattle with calves cattle and also horses. They didn't seem troubled by me so they must be used to walkers.
The path down was very wet and slippery but I do not remember the hazardous bit marked on the map as being particularly bad just rather busy. A short road section took me to Etsaut and Bob waiting in the van. It was hot again and so good to have the option of fruit and yogurt as a change from the bars etc that I was carrying. After a short stop I carried on over the road and river to Borce, a really twee little village. At least all the villages have water troughs and fountains! Guillaume I and I leap frogged each other here with our support in slightly different places. I think Bob met me in Lescun where I briefly refuelled and then found Guillaume eating at the pub in town.
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| Heading down to Auberge Estaing |
The climb up to Refuge Aberouat was not too bad and I was given a very warm welcome even though at 8.30pm it was almost time for the evening meal for all those who were resident. We were not expecting food here but I had soup, bread, coffee and more. The owners young daughter was keen to chat and gabbled away telling me I was the only woman and all about the trail coming up. I think she thought my french was much better than it is. She even came with me to take photos for several hundred metres. After a fairly easy trail through woods it became steeper and was dark when I stopped to look back at the view and I realised Guillaume was not far behind. We passed a huge herd of sheep together but luckily the shepherds hut was there and although the dogs came to see us so did the shepherdess. It was a steep and rocky climb up to the ridge to and then came the dodgy section.
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| Pas d'Azuns- it was dark for me |
We were glad to be together. It got quite technical and it was of course dark by now. It was an area of amazing karst scenery and shame to miss it in the dark. There were huge sink holes, a massive cave system (1 km deep and 1km long- one of the biggest in France?) and some big drops.
In all the rock it was tricky sticking to the path despite the warnings we had received. We lost the path a couple of times and at one point did get an urgent phone call from the RO watching the trackers 'STOP, you are off path and in danger'. The trouble was the delay on the tracker meant we had already dealt with this and were back on track again. Eventually we hit the highest ski runs- probably an unattractive gravel mess in day light and had a slightly easier run down to the ski resort of La Pierre St Martin.
A bizarre fairy light lit bridge led us into the heart of the complex and the CP itself. We ate well, showered, had our feet seen to and then went to sleep in a squash court. This podiatrist was great. I stripped off most of the old stuff and she immediately saw the issues with the hole where my foot had been macerated. Good dressings and padding helped enormously. Another long day of over 18 hours and a pre dawn start. I had actually caught men who had been ahead for days- Mr le Piquet and 'long trouser man'. We set off as a four with Laurent. Together we worked our way out of the ski resort and onto grassier paths before settling into our own pace. Laurent shot off, I followed a bit more slowly and the other two fell behind.
Again I have a memory gap here after St Engrace. I remember more farm land and some lanes. Then a big climb onto a ridge. From the highest point I do remember a wonderful path that hugged the cliff side high above a massive gorge. Then there were also some very muddy woodland paths with slippery boulders before an even more spectacular path cut into the rock at the side of the gorge. I crossed the suspension bridge at speed causing it bounce a little- not popular with the tourists. The path then became even more spectacular with huge gorges and an amazing path hewn out of the cliff face.
Sadly at this time of day there were also crowds walking up and I spent time avoiding small children, dogs, pairs holding hands and at one point plates for a picnic laid out across the path. I had bounced over the bridge drawing shrieks for female tourists and now I was having to fight my way past more as I went downhill. Eventually I reached the road. It too was crowded but Bob had found a parking spot and was waiting. I changed my socks, aired my feet, ate, drank and had a short lie down. It was only 2pm and very hot.
From here the terrain changed quite noticeably and I climbed into forests but with lower peaks than before. Some of the trails were better but there was also more mud again in some parts. The rock had changed and now seemed volcanic. The low cloud returned and then as I approached Iraty the fog settled in drenching me and it even started to rain.
The shooting huts were ugly and a bit strange but they did provide some shelter as I put my waterproof on. Bob had had a rather nerve wracking drive up a narrow road but I was very pleased to see him and to get out of the weather. It was still early and certainly not dark but I had had enough for the day at about 7pm. It meant lots of time to eat and then an early crawl into bed.
It was a struggle leaving the van but I had made myself get up early and set off pre dawn in thick fog and damp. It was so disorientating that twice I fell off the side of the road. Soon I got used to the gloom and a wide trail through woods took me down to a road. At this stage I was just grateful for easy miles and this early in the morning there was no traffic. All the signs were now in Basque and like in eastern Europe there seemed to be lots of K,Z,W and too many consonants. It kept my mind busy. Before long it was light and good paths in nice beech woods took me up to open land. The descent to CP 21 Kaskolta Gite must have been uneventful because I can't remember it. The terrain was now much less rugged with lower hills and more tracks.
This CP was not meant to be offering food but I hoped to get hot water for my dehydrated meal. I was over the moon to find a huge table laid out for breakfast- coffee, hot chocolate, bread, honey, eggs, cheese, ham , fruit and more. Oh wow. I was even offered a huge baguette sandwich for lunch.
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| CP21 Basque man and RO |
The trail from here was easier and even started with some lanes through gentle green farmland.
We were only at 500-700m and it was pleasantly warm. Bob had agreed to meet me in St Jean Pied de Port but we had not realised it was festival day! Before this I encountered Basque villages for the first time as we descended out of mountains and into pretty farmland.
It seemed there was a rule- all houses must have the same rusty red colour for any paintwork!
Then came the village of Caro. I didn't really have time to explore but the houses were all huge and quite square with very large doors.
An info board told me more but I would have taken ages to translate it all. Bob had asked me to text him from here as the trackers were showing such a delay that he would not know when to expect me. He had a good parking place where the GR arrived in the town and below the Citadel walls. I stopped and ate lovely fresh food, restocked my water and rested a while.
As I approached the centre of the old town it got more touristy and very busy- well it was mid August and by now late morning. Then I realised it was more than that. The route is also shared by the Campostella pilgrim route and it was National day.
By the time I could see the ancient gate at the bottom of the old streets they were packed shoulder to shoulder full of people in costume with lots of choirs singing, bands etc. It would have been great to stay and to watch and explore but I was on a mission. There did not appear to be any way through! I looked for a side street to make a detour but they were no better. In the end I gradually pushed my way forward trying not to knock anybody over or spear them with my poles. I spotted an old man with two big shopping bags. He was going my way and I slotted in behind him. Phew- it took a while but I made it through. Apparently 3 hours earlier it had been clear when Laurent went through and again by late afternoon for Giullaume.
Only about 100km left now and almost all of the very big hills out of the way. I had agreed to see Bob again in about 18km at the next CP in St Etienne de Baigory (22). The trails to here were a mix of tracks, lanes and reasonable paths. I made good time.
Again once I arrived in the village I found it in full festival mode, this time with a championship of open air Pelota being played on a huge stadium with banks of seating.
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| Every village had a court- this one was huge |
Almost every small village seemed to have a court. At least this time the crowds were mostly off the street. My CP was in a football/athletics stadium and I passed the van going in.
The CP staff were wonderful and could not do enough for us. Individual service and all sorts of different food offers. I settled for coffee, soup, a huge omlette, cous-cous salad and melon. Bob came for a chat and helped me make sure all my gear was on charge. I even got a lie down on the physio bed once the Japanese man had had his feet treated. We were given a book page with a motivational message added to it.
It was 5ish when I arrived and we chatted about the next section. The CP staff seemed concerned that I was planning to go off alone on what was marked as a dangerous section. I wasn't bothered until they got me hyped. The Japanese man had already left and the other guy has such swollen feet and legs that he was going to rest and try again in the morning. Off I went up on to the Cretes d'Iparla.
The path started fairly gently but soon got steep. Dusk was coming but it was not dark yet and I could see another runner up ahead; I tried to catch them up. Either the Japanese guy was shy or didn't understand me when I suggested we stuck together. He shook his head so I overtook and ploughed on alone.
Within half an hour huge clouds loomed and these started to drop and cover the mountain. Then the wind got up. Hmm, a storm on the way. The 'dangerous' path was easy. It was like being back in the Lake District- a reasonable path despite a huge drop off to the side. I guess in thick fog it could be sketchy. The path dinked through rocks a few times at the tops of gullies but I never felt unsafe. There were lots of sheep and my torch caused them to panic and scatter. Vis was now down to perhaps 50m. Suddenly there was a thunderous noise- horses spooked by the sheep had decided they should charge off too. I thought I could hear thunder in the distance or was it only fireworks? There were apparently fireworks down in town but this was now definitely thunder and some vivid flashes away in the distance too. The Cretes had been fine but as the path started to descend it got lots more technical with some greasy slabs and rock steps. They would be fine in the dry but in the fog, damp and dark plus a bit of mud they were a place to go slowly. The worst parts had a wire handrail. Gradually it improved and I could move faster. I wanted to beat the storm. The last 2-3km were on a very good path and I ran hard towards the lights of the CP in Bidarray. Bob was there and Eric who had been on the Luz CP too. It was just gone midnight and the end of a 19hour day. I was tired so ate a bit and then went out to grab a few hours sleep in the van.
One more get up!! I was determined to finish the next day. Just over 60km to go but no CPs now. It was good to know there would be shops and that I would see Bob. I set off early in the dark but not as early as Laurent who had already gone. I have no memory of the climb up to col des Veaux but the rain had stopped. From there it was fairly easy running down to Ainhoa, another pretty basque village.
I stopped to eat but did not want to linger. The trail from here should have been more runnable as it went along the river but I was so tired. Then there was a loop up to the border, so another climb before the descent to Sare where Bob was also waiting- the roads were now better and he did not have to make big detours to get to me.
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| Ancient road in Sare |
Easy paths led me up to near the border with Spain and over a rack and pinion railway track which went all the way to the summit of La Rhune at 900m.Our path climbed to 500, dropped to 100 and then climbed to 700 again. On the map this looked easy running with lumpy hills and wide paths. The reality was some very eroded paths that were torture for my very sore feet. From the La Rhune area I could see the sea and the finish in Hendaye. Our route seemed tortuous and I tried not to let the negative thoughts get to me.
I remember rather a gruesome crucifix scene on a hill and then running down a lane with 12 stations of the cross and then lower down in woods some muddy paths. Bob had driven to Ibardin which is a strange place on the border- lots of cheap shops and eating places. A bit like the entrance to Andorra but not quite so grim. He had been lucky to get a parking spot where I would see him. It was so humid that I was soaked so I changed my shirt as well as eating. The end truly was in sight now and there should not be many tricky paths where I could tumble... a DNF at this stage was not going to happen.
Relatively east tracks took me on a little roller coaster ride over small hills and down to Biriatou. I lost the path in the village but found the van and was soon back on track. I barley stopped here and in retrospect Bob should have skipped this village and gone directly to the finish (it was nice to see him though). Lots of quiet lanes now. Under the big motorway, through farmland and villages gradually inching closer to Hendaye. I could 'smell' the finish now and the GR was well marked with red and white as I ran downhill into town and towards the harbour. It was a bit of a shock to encounter traffic and I took a few minutes to check the safest way over a roundabout and through a park. I almost missed the turn away from the harbour and towards the beach. Bob rang to say he was struggling to find any parking for the van. Once on the sea front it was an easy run along the prom to reach the mosaic star on the floor signifying the most SW point in France. I had a fair few tourists to dodge but the bikes were on an outer path and at 9pm it wasn't as busy as it would have been in the afternoon.
Suddenly there was the finish arch and people out cheering. I had done it. Only Brit, only female to finish and 12th overall. 90 started and only 33 finished. I had taken 15 days and either 9 or 5 hours depending on whether I gained back hours when the race was halted. I didn't really care. The climb initially thought to be around 65000m seemed to be anything from 68000 to almost 80000m.
It was finished and I had beaten the dark,just. Bob sadly missed the finish which was shame after all this driving, support, shopping and late nights/early starts.
We were both too tired to figure he should just park further out and walk the km or so. Laurent and Eva greeted me on the finish line along with Cyril the RO and lots of other race staff. It was a short stagger to the yacht club where I refuelled on pizza and beers.
They seemed surprised that I could eat a whole 14" pizza on my own and in such a short time. I had a shower which was bliss but showed just what a bad state my feet were in, collected my drop bag and went to meet Bob. We were both too tired to think straight and to navigate narrow crowded streets in the dark but eventually parked up at a supermarket for the night and fell into bed.
The next day we found parking and walked back to the finish area. I had my feet dressed again now they were clean and we were in the right place to see Guillaume finish which was wonderful given how much time we had spent together and how kind his family had been.
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| They had been teasing me for days about how little I was |
I then set about refuelling... 3 balls of ice cream and then another 5 at a brilliant ice cream shop.
This was later followed by a proper sit down pizza and beer.
I lay in a park and perhaps dozed a little before wandering back to the van to collect Bob and make our way to the race reception that evening. There were more photos, with better light at 7pm than there had been at 9 when I finished. It was good to be able to congratulate Jerome and just to sit and chat with Laurent, Eva, Jerome and so many of the race team as we ate and drank. People had an eye on the trackers and at 9pm we wandered up to see Sylvain finish. It was wonderful to see our loose knit team had all made it and for us all to be there that evening. A slow walk back to the van and another late bed. Our last night in France with a long lie in, a launderette, shopping and then a drive into Spain.
It was a wonderful adventure and I was so pleased to have managed to complete my challenge. There was much less running and more walking than I had hoped. I learnt a great deal both about the route, an event of that distance and about myself. My rough time schedule went out the window although 15 days and a few hours was not so much longer than my hoped for 14 days. On paper 50km a day seemed so reasonable but in fact at times it was a struggle. There were some very long days as I stressed about making sure I would meet any cut offs. The longest day was perhaps after the very wet cramped bothy hut. It was well before dawn when we started and perhaps a 20 hour day. Similarly leaving Cauterets before dawn and then our epic walk when the race was stopped and we continued to Gabas was over 19 hours. There were not many short days except for the fist day when we started at noon but I did have a day of well under 14 hours after the wet spell when I met Bob at Marc and slept in the van for the first time and after Gabas it was under 12 hours to Iraty, again a van sleep. Having the van really made a huge difference as I could not only have the treats I wanted but could not carry like yogurt and fresh fruit and veg but also got the moral lift of seeing Bob. The other big difference was a decent sleep even if it was only a few hours and being able to do this regardless of the positions of the CPs. True, I had done that when I slept in the lavoir and again in the open air but the van was better plus saved so much time as I did not need to unpack my neoair, sleeping bag etc. Bob drove almost 900 miles between the start and finish. Some of these were to do his walks but most was to support me, driving back out of valleys to bigger supermarkets and then back up the next valley and up narrow mountain roads. I made some wonderful friends and must make sure we stay in touch.
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| Sylvain, R, RO Cyril and I as we were leaving CP10 |
The race is already taking entries for 2025 and who knows? Never say never but maybe a different challenge awaits me. Back to the Proclaimers and the 500 more...... I did have a nightmare a few nights after the race where the only way back after the race was to follow the GR11 on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees. That would be an awesome double!
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