I had been wanting to do the Harvey Howgill Tops for a while. After climbing on Monday we hatched a plan..... Tuesday Howgills, Wednesday SUP on Windermere and Thursday Oddendale area. The forecast was superb- although perhaps not for running!
HH Tops is one of the Go Far challenges. It's about 62km and has lots of climb, about 3700m. Connecting all the tops means that you leave the usual paths and have some fearsome descents and climbs. You also use tiny trods to contour. To make parking easy we parked in Sedburgh so I used getting onto Winder (my first and last Top) as my warm up. Shortly after 8am I was ready. It was already crazy warm.
I have run on the Howgills a fair bit both as days out and for Mountain Marathons. I like the ridges and the solitude. The big hulking shapes are very different to the Lake District but I love them. I had not been on recee runs and would be solo unsupported. Some bits I knew but even there not always the best lines. Other bits would be an adventure.
The first tops were easy and I had soon ticked off Crook and Sickers plus The Knott. Then came the novelty. I had 'borrowed' a GPX trace and stupidly assumed it would be fine. It wasn't wrong but I had not really paid enough attention as to whether it was suitable for me. The descent to Hobdale Beck was dreadful and the bracken hid the trods. It was slow. I crossed the beck OK but then met a sigh suggesting no way through. I tried along the river- no. I climbed back and fell in nettles. Not a great start. I decided all I could do was ignore the sign and follow the GPX and work my way onto the main Pennine Journey Path.
This was better although wetter and muddier than expected. I was soon at Cautley Beck and could see the Cross Keys Temperance Inn where most people start. More boggy path led to the ford and then it was a stiff climb up Wandale Hill. Coming off the top I went too far west when I found a trod and so then had to climb a boggy fence line to get back on route. Annoying.
From Adamthwaite there was another big climb up Harter Fell. These Tops don't visited as much as the main Howgills and I searched for trods. I got a good line back down to the road but then stuffed up my initial climb to Knott. Ah well - I would soon be back on the main area and surely things would improve?
From Knott to Knoutberry and Green Bell was a joy and even the detour out to Green Fell was fine. The detour out to Hooksey led me on my first contour and then a monster climb back up Randygill. Kensgriff was OK but then another monster climb to Yarlside. I was starting to struggle and had used all my water. Next stop was Bowderdale Beck via a trod down the north nose. It looked clean and I needed to drink. I refilled both bottles and took time to drench myself and my hat. 16km done and it was over 30C.
The climb up to Hazelgill Knott was steep and pretty much pathless. At least it was just grass. Usually I run this ridge from The Calf and love it. Today I was less in love and has missed the lovely downhill section of ridge. I ploughed on to West Fell and knew where to find the trod heading west to Langdale Knott. I had done 20km so about 1/3 of the route. It was a gorgeous day but far too hot. I had seen nobody, not even in the distance.
Here I had to make a decision. Follow the GPX direct line or do my usual route which is longer but more gentle in both descent and then climb. I stuck with the GPX but for me I think it was the slower option. Never mind.
Crossing Langdale Beck I slipped and suddenly I was lying in lovely cold water. I rested, refilled my bottles again and set off up Middleton. Usually I manage to jog some of the climb here and to Simon's Seat but today was a struggle in the heat.
It's a big loop round to Docker Knott and then the unnamed 500m Top but the paths were reasonable. A big drop and another climb led to Rispa Pike and I was almost half way. All was good round to Archer Hill but then I made an error. Hare Shaw and Blease Fell were a low point. A new fenced area blocked my way and I was tired. I took the wrong turn and added extra distance over some less than pleasant ground. I was now half way but my head just said- ONLY half way, oh heck.
It was better heading to Uldale Head and I made it through the cattle at the stream afterwards. The next section was horrid. I was contouring on a tiny trod above the Spout and Black Force. Running was out of the question and my feet were rubbing around the ankle bones after contouring in wet shoes. A slightly better contouring path led to Whins End although I had to make a small detour as horses refused to move. More contouring on even worse paths/trods led to Brown Moor. Here I made another poor decision. Given the state of my feet and the fact that at 5'6'' my legs are not long I should not have followed the GPX. Before the steep ground and the heather I should have headed back to the main path to ascend Fell Head. It would have been further but it might have been easier and faster.
A quick check of my ankle bones showed they were rubbed raw. Bugger, no wonder they were so sore. At least I now had some respite on a decent path round Breaks Head and on to Bush Howe. Cobles seemed an annoying out and back at this stage and again I ended up on rough terrain.
Somewhere around here I texted and rang Bob. It would be a long day and I even suggested I bail. It was going to take me much more than 12 hrs, and I had secretly hoped for between 11 and 11.5. Bob refreshed with ice cream was back at the van and told me to keep going.
A small detour to White Fell Head and then the high point of the day- The Calf. At last; 45km done now. In my head the end was in sight. The reality was another detour to Bram Rigg Top and then a bigger detour to Great Dummacks before reaching Calders.
I am sure somebody moved Arant Haw. It usually seems quite close and comes quickly. Not today. Then I realised I had to detour to Comb rather than just run down the ridge to Winder. Getting to Comb was fine but the last leg was awful. Perhaps I should have regained Arant Haw despite the extra climb it would entail. Instead I ended up on a contouring trod making very slow progress and trying not to cry as my ankles rubbed. Finally I reached Winder and could stop. 13hrs 9 mins was not what I had hoped for. Yes a lovely day out of type 2 fun and at least I had completed the challenge. I had not seen a single soul all day. Jogging back to the van I couldn't decide whether to try again for a faster time or whether I never ever want to see some of those lines again.
I arrived at the van almost tearful. I was trashed and despite refilling my bottles countless times I was still thirsty.
Lessons learned. Don't try to run a big challenge in a heat wave. Allow more than 48 hrs recovery after an ultra race. Check a borrowed GPX carefully. Don't be pig headed and punish your body for failing you the month before and take your ankle area in preparation for contouring. Days later the question remains- should I go again?
The Windermere SUP happened at a leisurely pace and with some swimming. We did clock up over 20km and ice cream was eaten!
One of our favourite van stops is Oddendale and the running here on the grassy limestone hills is what I generally consider to be gentle. A run /walk of almost 38km was a silly idea.
I loved the first 15km, hated the next 10km and kept stopping to rest in the shade. The last 13 were better, although whether the drop to Shap for ice lolly was worth it is debatable.
 |
| Looking back at the Howgills |
I then lay in the shade at the van for the rest of the day until walking out to meet a very hot and trashed Bob.
Yes- we both climbed on Friday.
No comments:
Post a Comment