Scotland -Day 5

We awoke to blue sky and sunshine. Despite the great weather neither of us wanted to repeat ground from yesterday so we sacked the idea of Ben Macdui and drove to Glen Shee. This time we parked lower down at Spittal Spean bridge. Had we known we would have two days walking here we would have planned differently so today we were left with 4 munros and quite a short day; perhaps no bad thing after such a long day yesterday.

We had a boggy valley start for the first time this week and despite the sunshine it was chilly at first. By the steep rocky slope of Carnan Tuirc it was warmer. Even the tops and plateau here were boggy but my feet were happy not to be on stony track. Walking each day had not given them a chance to recover and although I still had no blisters they did feel generally sore. We made our way across the hillside to Tolmount and took our time.

 The views back to Cairngorm were good and now we could also get a good view of the Lochnagar peaks we had been on a couple of days ago. Tom Buidhe was quite close by and as we arrived here we met another friend out running.

This time it was Katy T training for her JNC. Bob had a little adoration of More Mile shoes with her and then we set off back towards the ski resort. We ambled along with hares darting everywhere. It was a longer climb up to Cairn of Claise than it initially appeared.

 From here we contoured above the huge cornice and the grassy spur of Sron na Gaoithe. This last ridge was like the Howgills and it just had to be run. We climbed the little 'nobble' on the end, spotted the van and then headed steeply downhill.  It was a short day and we pottered in the sunshine airing the van and I bathed my feet in the icy stream.

The base of my shin and my achilles on the right foot are still sore. It was breezy so we dropped to a lower lay bye. Unfortunately it was windy here too. Bob retired to the van and I climbed the fence to get to a sheltered hollow.

 All was well until I woke up from a doze and tried to climb back. I got caught on the barbed wire, struggled, got caught some more, panicked, grabbed it and then ended up on the floor.  Luckily most of the cuts were superficial and once the shock had passed I was fine.

 Driving south we both craved fish and chips. We could see nowhere to park in Doune but knew where to go in Aberfeldy. By mid evening we were parked up in the sun beneath Ben Lawers and ready for our last day.

Scotland -Day 4

All we could do was hope that the rain would stop by morning. It was chilly up at Glen Shee but by morning although it was cloudy it was dry. I opened my birthday presents and we headed off to the Linn of Dee.

The later start was not ideal but in the end it meant we got the best of the weather. Bob was glad to make use of his NT Scotland membership and get free parking. We started out on the big track to the White Bridge (although it isn't). A couple of people shot by on bikes and I regretted saying I did not want to cycle. By the end of the day we were glad to be on foot as it allowed us to return by a different route.

The path from the bridge to the Corrour hut was boggy and seemed to take hours as I wandered far from a straight line trying to keep dry feet. We eventually arrived at the bothy in chilly damp weather at about midday. We explored the hut briefly and Bob made use of their experimental dry compost toilet. From here on the weather picked up and so did my mood.

 It was a very steep climb up to Devils Point and we had to circumnavigate some snow at the top of the stream. Our late start paid of because by the time we were on the summit it was clear and the views were stunning. A brief glance at the map might suggest that from there you can follow above all the crag and corries roughly northward and soon collect a couple more mountains. Ha ha.

 It is very rocky and has much more climb than we had anticipated. I loved the boulders as they were dry and bounding from one to the next always makes me go faster. Bob was less impressed. However the sunny weather and amazing views meant you could not fail to enjoy it. Both the boys texted me a Happy Birthday as we were heading for Cairn Toul and Matt rang to say his dissertation had narrowly missed a first.

We carried on over more rock to Sgor an Lochan and the cliffs and corries just got bigger. A vast sandy desert area led across the plateau to Briarach. There was probably not time to do the two peaks further west and we were tired enough to not want to spoil the day by being greedy.

 After a photo call on the summit we found the steep and little used path back down to the Lairig Ghru, past the helicopter crash and over the stream to the main path. This path back to Corrour was in a better state and we made good time.

We agreed to try the rising path that would take up back to Derry Lodge rather than repeat our outward route. Although it was more undulating it was a much better path and it was nice to have different views.

Even from Derry Lodge it was still some way but the evening was glorious. There was ancient pine forest, abandoned shooting lodges and wild campers. I raced back down the final path and put the kettle on. A 12 hour day but a fantastic birthday treat. After a meal of tea, soup, bread and cheese we fell into bed.

 

Scotalnd -Day 3

I must have known there was low cloud and drizzle as I did not sleep well.

When we peered out the cloud was almost down the valley floor - not a day for the high Cairngorms! We went back to bed with coffee and a book. It didn't improve so we both had a sleep. By midday it was drier and the cloud was lifting. A quick drive to Glen Shee and a rather hasty route plan meant we could get some sort of walk in. We were not sure how long it would stay dry and the NE wind was fierce. We were protected on part of the way uphill but as we climbed the shoulder of Glas Maol  the wind buffeted us badly.It is a huge grassy lump and ironically once we were on the top the wind was not so bad and then we had the wind on our backs as we dropped along the grassy ridge heading south.

 It got rockier as we followed the tiny wall towards Creag Leacach and its many sub peaks. A couple of fell runners approached and it was a surprise to see Charlotte W out with Edinburgh Uni running club. Dropping to the road the weather seemed settled so I hatched a plan of two more munros on the west side of the road. The first section to the lower slopes of The Cairnwell were tough as we found no path and rather tussocky heather.

Then after a section of burnt heather I picked up a trod and a path. It was steep but easier than the lower slopes. The top is rather ugly with an assortment of buildings, pipes, wires and aerials. From there it was a very easy walk round the rim of the ski resort to Carn Aosda.  There was not time to collect the final munro further west. By now it looked like rain again so it was a quick jog down the grassy slopes underneath a ski tow and then back to the huge car park and the van. By the time we had boiled a kettle it was raining hard. Perfect timing.

Scotland -Day 2

The road to Glen Muick is long! When we parked up overnight we thought we were almost there but in fact it was still several miles. Still, it was miles in the van not on our feet and we were still off and walking by 8.30. The broad track across the bottom of the loch was covered in deer and they did not seem bothered by us until we were within an about 5 m.

 After a short section of woodland we were out onto the hill. The track had been well maintained for shooting parties and once we negotiated one stream it was easy walking up towards Lochnagar.As we climbed to the first col it began to clag in a little but the path was very obvious and big slabs marked the way.

A kiwi runner trotted by and we had a chat. The views into the corries were superb. Once we were up on the rim of the corrie it was chilly in the mist but as we worked our way towards the false summit and then the real summit of Cac Carn Beag it began to clear.

The day then just got better and better. We followed the path above yet more crags and Loch nan Eun and briefly made an out and back to Carn a'Choire Bhoidheach.

It was pleasing to keep dry feet even when we dropped to what appeared to be a boggy area and then it was up again , past the old Canberra plane crash to the summit of Carn an t-Sagairt Mor.

The weather was now totally clear and the views were fantastic in all directions. We kept bumping into the same two guys all day as they were doing a similar route but taking slightly different lines. The map showed no path but we had believed it would be so. We were right. A broad path headed SE to Cairn Bannoch and then the lowest peak of the day, Broad Cairn. We opted for the high path to keep the sun and were rewarded with views back iinto Dubh Loch.

 It was quite a long walk back along the main loch but we met our 'friend' again and the time went quickly as we chatted.

Back at the van we sat in the sun, aired our feet and did some washing. We needed food so as the sun started fading we drove to Ballater before heading for a lay bye on the Linn of Dee road. Once parked up we had a feast of celery, humous and cous cous.

A recovery week in Scotland- Day 1

This year is Bob's not mine. He was patient at let me enjoy the H110 again and even marshalled for Jon. Once I had arranged an early prize-giving we were off in the van to claim Munros. He had kindly picked a lone Munro for the first day. His challenge wanted to inlcude the most easterly so Mount Keen it was. We had an interesting drive up through parts of SE Scotland that we did not kow and were safely parked in Glen Tanar by late morning. I had slept well and my legs felt surprisingly fine. Mt feet although not blistered were mashed and very sore.

 My lower right leg wasn't great with a swelling at the base of the shin and a sore achilles. Some gentle exercise would be great. It was very warm and sunny and we started nice and slowly. It was an easy walk in on a fairly level track and with 3 bridges to keep our feet dry.

My feet were no better but they were no worse either. The path after the last bridge started to climb quite steeply but was firm and dry. We spotted a grass snake and later some frogs. The views were excellent although there was cloud on the tops further west. It was chilly at the summit so we took photos but did not linger.

 I thought on the way up that the skyline looked interesting but there was no obvious path over the first hills so we descended the same way. Once down on the main track the path seemed to go on for ever.

The ancient pine forest was beautiful but the gard track was torture and I even started craving mud and bog. We varied the return slightly and despite some spots of rain we stayed dry. 19 miles was a long walk for one Munro and we were both tired. Luckily it wasn't far to drive to Glen Muick for the next days adventure. No surprise that we slept well again. Total isolation and silence. Even the deer came down close to the van.

Hardmoors 110 (well 112 but Jon cannot count)

Having done this last year I was keen to try to improve on my time. I decided that despite some pressure the H160 might be a tad too far just yet and as I was keen to complete Jon's Triple Ring of Steele I didn't want a dnf. Nearer the time I got ridiculously nervous, not sure why. It was going to be rather different from last year as instead of starting at 5pm we were off from Helmsley at 8am Saturday to accommodate the 160 runners. It meant a more leisurely drive to Yorkshire and that we were in the van driving when the heavens opened on Friday evening and heavy rain set in. A mixture of nerves and cars coming and going meant I did not sleep that well even in the van but I was up at 6 and ready for off. 

The buzz on Sat morning

I had registered on Friday and so had about an hour of extra time in the morning. The awful conditions had taken their toll. When I met Annie at breakfast she had tales of woe and had run through thick mud in full waterproofs.

 Mick C was sadly retiring after battling a painful shin injury for hours. It was great to meet up with so many friends and to have time to chat. One day I will find a way to learn the names of all the male runners that greet me.

Ridiculously bright new shoes, but comfy

I was determined to start slowly but got pulled along by Helen and others. Well before the White Horse I decided the pace was too much and made the brave decision to just let them go.

 I had failed to pad my big toe and the lack of toe nail was making it sore so while my feet were fairly dry I dived into the van at CP1, thankfully Bob was marshalling there, and taped it up.

 It lost me a few paces but would be minutes well spent later on and I soon made up some of the places. Charlotte overtook me and then we ran fairly closely for a while. On the way to Square Corner the nerves under my right foot did their stupid thing and shot pain to my toes. Running on the stony track was a real trial and I arrived at Square Corner in a sorry state.

 Jon and others showing concern made me cry so I decided the best thing was to just get going again having taken some pain killers. By Osmotherley things were better although my haste had made me set off without refilling my water bottle. I spotted Dave K and friend refuelling at the shop.

 I hooked up with a great guy for the next few miles to Live Moor. Around here the weather deteriorated and we were heading for higher ground. I like this next section as it is so varied. Yes it goes up and down a great deal and I did curse the slippery slabs and steps but I enjoyed it. It was wet and windy but could have been much worse.

 Somewhere on this section Martin D and his friend joined me and having company was good. We chatted a bit and Martin showed me a cheeky way down to Clay Bank. We stayed together for a few more miles a reeled in a couple of other runners. The section from Blowith Crossing to Kildale seemed to take an age and I pushed ahead a bit wanting it to be over. The track and then road into Kildale made my foot spasm again so I arrived at the CP looking worse for wear. Helen was just leaving as I went in so she was not too far ahead. I hoped that stopping for food and massaging my foot things would improve. Andy made me tea and the marshalls were lovely. My foot hurt more when I stopped so I ran on; and again I failed to fill up my water. By Captain Cook's monument I felt better and caught up with Katie.

 The next section including the out and back over Rosebury Topping went well and I ran with two lads, Jamie and Tom, for much of the way to the Fox and Hounds. It was good to run with confidence and I feel I now know the way fairly reliably. I was even able to stop a group of us going astray in Guisborough Woods.  I also had to refill my water here from a very peaty stream- well I convinced myself that the colour was just peat. At the pub I caught Helen and as she stopped for a toilet break that was the last I saw of her. The lads and I ran on to Saltburn together and this year I managed to go the correct way in the woods before the hotel. I was surprised to find Bob here. He had left White Horse, been to Kildale, tried Sandsend but couldn't get through the height barrier and so had come back. I refreshed a bit and had some more painkillers for my foot. I also spotted my finish bag! which John V kindly took to the finish for me. The weather had now improved and I ran much of the next section alone. I think it made it tougher being alone and knowing it would get dark.

A beautiful sunset

I knew the way but was getting tired. By Staithes the light was definitely gone and a torch became necessary. I stopped for a cup of tea at Runswick Bay but was not wanting to eat. I knew this was bad but just couldn't find something that I felt would go down. I should have tried harder. I almost had a disaster on the beach when I failed to find the ravine. I found a house which I did not remember from previous years and so ran back. In the end another runner appeared and knew it was after the house.  The stream in the ravine was in spate but we had beaten the tide! I had not fancied the idea of having to wait. True to time would be paid back but getting stiff and cold and then having to motivate myself to get going again would have been tough. It was very dark by Sandsend but Lee and his team were cheerful and I knew the next bit would be fairly easy running to Whitby. I felt  was going embarrassingly slowly but could do no more. I think in my heart I knew I needed to be eating. I ran the next section alone and found the narrow muddy cliff tops paths quite a trial. By Robin Hoods Bay it was light and it lifted my spirits. It also made the steep steps down all the inlets less of a trial. Not long before Ravenscar Martin D and Jason caught me up. It gave me something to hang on to. Martin had promised his wife he would be at the CP by 5.30 and so was on a bit of a mission. Again Andy made me tea and went to get Bob from the van. I was still struggling to eat and left with just fluids. A whole group of us were now fairly close and this helped push the pace. Somewhere on the cliff tops I knew I had to eat or run out of fuel entirely. I managed a small handful of cashew nuts so then I tried a mini mars bar. No, straight back up and a horrid spell of dry heaving. Ah well. I had run most of the night with no food so a few more miles wouldn't kill me, probably. I tried to stick with Jason or at least keep him in my sights. It helped on the long flat hard surfaces around the Scarborough Bays. Arriving at Scarborough Spa we were offered bacon and egg buns. It was probably just what I needed but I couldn't face trying it. It was nice to see Bob and I think I looked less trashed than last year. Before long I was at Cayton Bay and although the weather kept threatening rain it never did more than drizzle. From here I knew I could do it. It might not be fast but it was less than 10 miles to go. Drizzle had me putting cag on and off until I gave up and just left it on. I pulled ahead and was on my own again so it was great to pass the last camp site before Filey and find Bob had jogged out to meet me.

 His support did make me try to run more, although the pace was dire. Jason overtook me as we arrived at Filey. Only 2 more miles but all uphill.  The path up the ravine was a good excuse to walk a bit but by the campsite lane even my tired legs could smell the finish and made an effort. Luckily there was a decent gap in the traffic on the main road and I jogged up the incline and into the school. Job done in 27 hours 29 mins. I had certainly not beaten last years time but I think having the dark later was harder and the conditions of rain on the first half and narrow muddy paths in the dark did make it tougher. I was happy. First lady home, mainly because Shelli had kindly done the 160. I suddenly I felt cold so after yet another cup of tea and both Bob and Jon offering me crumpet (yes, really - didn't they understand how tired I was) I disappeared for a shower. A brief kip in the van and I was ready to return to the hall and socialise.

 Lorriaie stuck to her plan of slow and steady to gain second lady. John K finished and one look at his blisters made me grateful that my feet were in such good shape. I had more to eat and then Lorraine and I had an early prize-giving so that we could leave.

 It would have been nice to see the others complete but for some it would be many hours yet. We had an appointment with many Munros. We were both tired from lack of sleep so after several stops and coffees we pulled into a lay bye near the border and fell into bed. I love the van.  I slept solidly until about 7 the next morning and awoke wondering how the others had got on. It would be some days before I would know.

A weekend of rest (well no running)

Friday afternoon saw me finish bus duty and run down the ginnel to find Bob and the van. A quick drive to the lakes and we were parked in Hartsop and ready to walk (I did get changed out of work wear at some point).

It was a glorious evening and quite a while since I had been on these particular hills..... in fact about 30 years when I did a similar route on a very wet cold day when camping at Brothers Water. It could not be more different with sun, clear skies and amazing visibility.

We set out up the water company track and onto the hill. I do not know what this farmer used to mark his sheep and lambs but it had run and they were all dyed a variety of red and pink. The climb up the fell side when we left the track and took on Grey Crag was vicious but actually didn't last all that long.

I have not run Kentmere for a while and need to go back

The evening sun cast fantastic light and shadow on all the surrounding hills so that every tiny feature was highlighted. I soaked in the view and studied our planned route for the next day. Then it was off towards Thornthwaite Beacon for a bit before contouring across to Threshthwaite Mouth.

The ground was dry, very dry. The scramble up the rocky path from Threshthwaite Mouth was so much easier than my last visit on an abortive JNC in horrendous conditions. I lay in the sun on Caudale Moor and soaked up the views as I waited for Bob who was not far behind. The rest of the route should be easy as it was almost all down hill. The easy grassy path led down and then slightly up to Hartsop Dodd.

 Three lovely Wainwrights on a superb evening. What a wonderful way to end the working week. All that remained was the return to the van. I had forgotten just how steep the drop back to the valley was. It didn't take long but my knees were complaining and I was glad to reach the bottom. We made a donation to the Patterdale Charity box and left to find a camping spot for the night. It didn't take long to drive the length of Ullswater, ignoring the crowds in Patterdale and be glad we were not stopping there.

We parked up at Martindale 'new' church and settled in for food and sleep.  I slept well despite the early dawn chorus and by 8 we were up fed and ready for off. It looked like being a glorious day.

Bob originally set out to do 10 peaks in each of the 7 wainwright books =70. This all happened quite fast and so a new challenge was born, to complete all of them in a year. Having started with one plan and now switching to another has left some oddities and some weird route choices as we try to sweep them up.

 We set out along quiet lanes and found the track to the old footbridge across the stream and onto the side of Place Fell. I knew this from the L42 and was sure it would be a gentle start to the day. I explored the peaks off to the left and then realised Bob had caught me up, not seen me and was heading up to Place Fell.

A quick jog caught him up. The boggy flat area was almost dry and we were soon on the first summit. There was a very stiff wind making it chilly but the views across to Helvellyn and Skiddaw were superb. Descending we met our first walkers and looking down Boredale Hause seemed horribly crowded. We were soon down and overtaking a big group of walkers.

We were on top of that last night

As we were aiming for Angle Tarn Pikes we lost most people as they stuck to the lower path. The Tarn itself was beautiful and I enjoyed myself overtaking some mountain bikers who were struggling on the rocky section of path.

 I think I have been to Brock Crag when I have orienteered on this area but could not be sure.

We had the place to ourselves and found some of the wettest ground of the day. The view down to Brothers water and the peaks of the previous night were great. We returned to the main path and met up with the big group of walkers for a few minutes. We also met the first of several people who needed navigational help. The day was clear and the paths were huge so I was a bit taken a back that people could be unsure. I would worry for them in bad weather.

Most people were heading for The Knott so as we cut off for Rest Dodd we were alone again. I don't think I am anti-social but I do like to have the hill to myself. Sitting just below the summit of Rest Dodd and checking out the ext section I spotted the herd of deer in Bannerdale. It was an easy walk down and along to The Nab.

The view to Hallin Fell and the obelisk was very clear but it would be some time before we arrived there. We were making good time and I started to hatch a plan. We had more than enough time to complete today's route and add in Sunday morning's. I was going to keep quiet but Bob must have esp and sensed what I was plotting. We agreed to review it but it did seem possible. The descent off The Nab was even steeper than Hartsop. We were both intrigued by 'The Bungalow' which we now know is an old shooting lodge. It has a vaguely colonial air and is rented out as a grand holiday cottage. A short walk on the valley floor led us back towards Beda Fell.

We had to check which bit was the Wainwright and were relieved to find it was Beda Fell and Beda Head rather than Bedafell Knotts. I suddenly remembered how Rowena and I had run across this area on a SLMM and I knew where all the paths were. The stroll along to the end of the ridge was lovely and the views just kept coming. We dropped to the valley floor, past the old Martindale church  and set off up the sloping diagonal path to Steel Knotts.

The wind was even more fierce now and as we turned back south it was quite a struggle. We headed to the wonderfully named Gowk Hill and several ruined farm buildings before climbing up to Wether Hill. For what seemed like the first time in the day we now had the wind on our backs and a mostly downhill section. We were soon on Loadpot Hill and contemplating Bonscale Pike. I do not think I had been there before and it was quiet. We contoured , on a different path each, to Arthur's Pike.  Bob was convinced there was a direct way down so we stayed close to the edge and after Long crag sure enough there was a way. It was steep but grassy and safe. It dropped us onto the bridleway and an easy route back to Howtown. we opted for the off-road bridleway via Mellguards to drop down directly on the church. I shot off ahead and made a brew, vital refuelling before we completed the day by adding Hallin Fell to our tally. It was a very short and easy walk and a great way to end with superb views from the obelsik over Ullswater and across to Cross Fell on the Pennines.

 We managed a photo in the ever strengthening wind and then it was back to the van. We were worried enough by the wind to move it across the road and away from the trees and rooks.By the time we had eaten it was almost time for bed. The wind rocked the van and we did not sleep so well. The worry of rain did not materialise though and so the plan of more peaks on Sunday was on. It was going to be an odd day of collecting in some outliers. First stop was the Aira Force car park and a walk up Gowbarrow.

We had orienteered on here too, but not for many years. The waterfall was beautiful even after a relatively dry period and we had the place to ourselves. We wandered across the trods and up on to the open fell climbing steadily until we got to the trig point. A huge path building plan was underway and they were mammoth sacks of stone everywhere. It seems a shame but I guess the erosion makes it necessary. Heading down off the hill we met quite a few walkers on their way up. The benefits of an early start. Next stop was the other side of Kirkstone and we prayed the lay-by would be empty. It was as not many ascend Wansfell from here. This was wet, wet, wet. Heaven knows what it is like after rain. It was a fairly quick out and back with a discussion of the best way to get to Troutbeck Tongue. Bob sat in the van refuelling and I sat in the sun with coffee and a book. It wasn't long before we were ready to search out our next parking spot. Sorting out a route to take in Sour Howes, Sallows and Troutbeck Tongue was not easy. In fact I think Wainwright had a touch of sadism including the latter as it really does stand alone. The parking opposite Lime Fit park was all take so it was over to plan B. Fortunately there was space at the end of Dubbs lane.It was also very warm down here. WE followed the big track we knew from mountain biking and after hopeless attempts to get a lamb back into the correct field we struck out uphill to Applethwaite Common or Sour Howes. On these lower tops the wind was gentle and I sunbathed while Bob caught up. The contour round to Sallows was fast and we were soon on Garburn Pass. There was nothing for it but to take a direct line here and just head NW down and across the hill.

 I reminded me of a leg on the LDMT but in reverse. The sight of masses of blue bells kept us going along the valley floor and across the streams. It was a stiff but short climb up the nose and then we were on the summit.

The last one of the day. I was not looking forward to the long trek back out along the valley track but it actually passed quicker than I had expected. I half planned a refreshment stop at the caravan park but knew it would make getting going again hard work.

We pushed on, climbed to Dubbs lane and powered our way back to the van. What a great weekend.